The Definitive Alignment Guide for your E36

[freerider]

Its all in the debate guys

I do actually find its harder to get the back out since fitting a strut tower brace at the front though.

 

[Fordkoppie]

Proof about what?
You obviously know nothing about basic suspension setups.
It is common knowledge that increasing stiffness in the anti roll bar at one end will give you a little more grip to a certain degree on the other. Increasing the stiffness in the front only will result in more understeer. But don’t take my word for it. You obviously know everything.
Oh….. and these are Americans, which by the way only really know how to eat McDonalds.
BTW – I have driven MY std. ex e36 M3 coupe to its max around a track with lap counts equaling endurance levels. If you cant get a std e36 M3 to oversteer by provoking it, you dont know how to drive it.

Little bit of an @sshole today are we. I'm sure we are very lucky to have a guy like you on the forum uke:.

I am not going to start a name-calling contest. You have not proven me wrong on any of my statements but instead just confirmed your immaturity with your last statement.

 

[gconry18]

I am not going to start a name-calling contest. You have not proven me wrong on any of my statements but instead just proved your maturity.

You started with the calling, but I guess you are one of those. Proved your maturity too.

BTW – I have driven MY std. ex e36 M3 coupe to its max around a track with lap counts equaling endurance levels. If you cant get a std e36 M3 to oversteer by provoking it, you dont know how to drive it.

*Flex, Flex*

In all honesty, I dont know a lot about suspension and I did not write this guide. How some people like their suspension setup is different from others but no need to start with being an ass to the person, rather just state your side. But once again I suppose that is the type of person you are. Your bias towards americans is another sign of immaturity.

/debate

 

[freerider]

Lets keep this thread on topic please.

Pro's:

Very informative

Con's:

Information is not noted in the bible


I'll still be trying out the shims (its not going to cost very much anyway) and having the toe in set to the above specs both front and rear and I'll let you know how the car drives.

If its shit, then I'll just have it set back to normal.

 

[Fordkoppie]

May I remind you of who started this argument with the following :“Proof? And I suppose you are speaking about an E36 from experience?”
I can detect sarcasm a mile away, hence my response.

---

Lets keep this thread on topic please.

Pro's:

Very informative

Con's:

Information is not noted in the bible


I'll still be trying out the shims (its not going to cost very much anyway) and having the toe in set to the above specs both front and rear and I'll let you know how the car drives.

If its shit, then I'll just have it set back to normal.

You can also try a stiffer rear anti roll bar now that your car's whole front structure is stiffer in the front to try and dial out the understeer.

 

[gconry18]

May I remind you of who started this argument with the following :“Proof? And I suppose you are speaking about an E36 from experience?”
I can detect sarcasm a mile away, hence my response.

Your sarcasm radar is slightly off. I was just wondering if you were a previous e36 owner (because your sig did not indicate this) and I wanted some technical information (proof) to further my own knowledge on the subject.

Thats the thing about text chat, you can never be 100% sure if it was sarcasm or not, I am telling you now it was not so I apologize if my choice of words in that sentence made you feel that way.

 

[Fordkoppie]

Another point that I don’t agree on with these guys is that they stated tyre wear is not related to camber.
Surely it is not as much as toe adjustment, but look what happens to an e30’s rear tyres when the car has been lowered.
The insides of the tread are eaten up very quickly.

 

[gconry18]

I'll still be trying out the shims (its not going to cost very much anyway) and having the toe in set to the above specs both front and rear and I'll let you know how the car drives.

If its shit, then I'll just have it set back to normal.

If you do it before me then let me know how it feels. But I suppose your experience with it wont help me much because you have a strut.

 

[Fordkoppie]

May I remind you of who started this argument with the following :“Proof? And I suppose you are speaking about an E36 from experience?”
I can detect sarcasm a mile away, hence my response.

Your sarcasm radar is slightly off. I was just wondering if you were a previous e36 owner (because your sig did not indicate this) and I wanted some technical information (proof) to further my own knowledge on the subject.

Thats the thing about text chat, you can never be 100% sure if it was sarcasm or not, I am telling you now it was not so I apologize if my choice of words in that sentence made you feel that way.

Sorry for going off towards you then.:thumb:

 

[gconry18]

Sorry for going off towards you then.:thumb:

No problem. It happens.:thumbsup:

 

[freerider]

Right mrnutzybolts says that the 12.9 M12x25 Bolts are a bank breaking R1.96 each and the through hardened 23x2.5 washers are 51c each.

 

[moranor@axis]

Another point that I don’t agree on with these guys is that they stated tyre wear is not related to camber.
Surely it is not as much as toe adjustment, but look what happens to an e30’s rear tyres when the car has been lowered.
The insides of the tread are eaten up very quickly.

the e30 will have toe on the back because you need it for strait line stability so it makes sense they get eaten...

i have spoken to quite a few people running -2.5* and 0 toe on the front of their cars and they claim they dont get bad wear... these are people who do track days from time to time so that might even it out...

im going to run as close to -3.5* as i can get on the front so i will be able to tell you guys how much it eats my tires

im only running -3.5 because its a drift setup and the only other option is to reduce the rear camber and put -2.5 on the front which im not keen on... if the fronts do get eaten badly i will have to run -2.5 front and -1.1 rear, but i dont really want to give up any of my rear end grip

 

[freerider]

zero camber and tyre wear is quite evident from my last track day in the 320i when the front tyres got quite properly eaten on the sidewalls

 

[calypso]

zero camber and tyre wear is quite evident from my last track day in the 320i when the front tyres got quite properly eaten on the sidewalls

Mine also looked exactly like that with 0 camber up front.

 

[moranor@axis]

mine look like that from street driving :slow: ok not that bad bit pretty similar...

 

[freerider]

I just had a look at my alignment that was done last month, I already have -1degree of camber both front and back and 0.09degrees toe front right and left, total toe therefore 0.18

rear is -1degree camber and 0.10 toe left and right, total toe therfore 0.20

 

[moranor@axis]

the e46 only has a maximum of -0.40* on the front :lll._.:

 

[gconry18]

I just had a look at my alignment that was done last month, I already have -1degree of camber both front and back and 0.09degrees toe front right and left, total toe therefore 0.18

rear is -1degree camber and 0.10 toe left and right, total toe therfore 0.20

Doesnt your individual have motorsport suspension though. I think the stock 325/328 has -0.3 front camber from the factory.

 

[freerider]

you right, motorsport suspension and aligned to the correct spec as well

 

[gconry18]

Did my camber on saturday (with a tiny bit of help from freerider :grin and man what a difference. Cured a lot of the understeer I was experiencing. And I can now kick the tail out a lot easier when I want to (which is great for an auto).

Still need to get alignment done on the rear and my front toe zero-ed and then a track day to make sure its not all in my head.