Nirvash - E39 540i/6

J

Jandre

Guest
Got to love the cubic trim on this car.

I retrofitted the same on my car. Made the world of difference.

Stunning car bud. Enjoy.
 
M

Mike1

Guest
Wow, how I miss this car! :inlove:

Was the first ever car I detailed for BMWFORLIFE, she is a lovely specimen!

Time has flown! Almost a year!

Mike
 

Nic_s

///Member
Awesome :clap:
It's great having those 6 gears to play with and no matter what gear your in it just keeps going :):)

All that's needed are wheels like this:
IMG_0323.jpg


More here: http://www.bmwfanatics.co.za/showthread.php?tid=34665
 

nirvash

Well-known member
thanks again for all the kind words, really enjoying the car

@ Jandre, is the trim style called "cubic" as mentioned in your post?

@Venterj, thanks, the trim really is different to the wood, as has a completely different look, the year registered is late 1999, 205000kms on the clock
really like your car btw

@nic s, i like the style 66's but if i went that route i think i would prefer style 65's, but mabe its to to much of a common look with the style 65's..... instead of the style 66's, so dont know:fencelook:

im thinking of getting style 42's staggered, any opinions on these any1?
mabe with gunmetal grey centers ..?

also does anyone know where i can get/download a factory service manual for the car, preferably without paying?

really enjoying the car...:grin:
 

nirvash

Well-known member
so a little update,

the car wasn't starting about 2 weeks ago:cry:
was a very sad/frustrating time for me,
so i thought i would share my experience with you all...

so upon turning the key and trying to start the engine, it would crank but wouldn't take, so first thoughts was the battery, or alternator not charging the battery...

so, first i checked if the battery seemed low by turning on the headlights and turning the ignition, with someone checking if the headlights dim when trying to start the car, they didn't, but still charged the battery as a precaution as after google'ing it seems these cars can sometimes refuse to start even if the battery is abit flat.
still not starting...

battery in boot, driver side, under cover









next logical step for me was to assume either an ignition or fueling problem, and not knowing electronics and ignition issues too well i decided to start with the fueling troubleshooting,

so after google'ing more, i decided to try the inexpensive fixes first, by replacing the possible blown fuel fuses:

boot, battery compartment, 30 amp fuse - green (fuse number 54)





[url=http://postimg.org/image/bnj1fhc9j/]



glove box, under panel, 10amp fuse - red (fuse number 31)

[url=http://postimg.org/image/4vp7n42zp/]



[url=http://postimg.org/image/5ywsn6yld/]



and the possibly blown fuel pump relay part no: 12631735424:

boot, battery compartment, furthest to the left if facing the fuses

[url=http://postimg.org/image/wqlu51k0b/]



after changing these one by one and trying to start the car after replacing each...
still not starting...


so next was to get to the mechanical side of the fueling so i decided to change the fuel filter that possibly could have been blocked, R1000 from bmw, just dont..
was going to do a diy but this one is pretty perfect already:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?533140-The-elusive-fuel-filter/page2

just to add to the above when changing your fuel filter part no: 13321709535,

you dont need to take the fuel pump fuse out with the car started to run the fuel out the lines (my car wouldn't start anyway:cry:), or crank once cut of to relieve fuel pressure, it is unnecessary imo, i didnt and a maximum of less then 1 litre of fuel came out the lines and filter

cut fuel lines and replace with new ones, you WONT get the old ones of and reuse without SERIOUS patience and you will be wasting your time

wear googles when cutting the fuel lines if you didnt release fuel pressure, a tiny pressurized squirt of petrol comes out where you cut, dont want it in your eyes, nasty:yuck:

when attaching new filter do the side with the inlet and outlet first then move to the single outlet and then the vacuum hose, it wont work the other way around,

if you encounter one of the factory hose clamps which require a special tool, wrestle till it comes of with whatever method you choose, pliers/screwdriver/tin snips etc

you will need about 20cm (get 40cm) of 8mm inner diameter fuel line
you will need about 10cm (get more incase) vacuum line with 3mm inner diameter

also replace hose clamps (12-15mm or 12-14mm) : part no: 07129952104
get the expanding rivets: part no: 51118174185 which hold the cover, they problem will brake when removing

fuel filter on the right hand side of the car under the front seat if looking at the car from the front, (passenger side here in S.A)

lastly, i couldn't jack the car up due to space, so i did this without jacking the car, just a warning - you can do this but it turns a 1hour job into a 3+hour job (first time), try jack it up or drive up a curb ghetto style, just try get some space to work

still didn't start...

next, in line was checking the fuel pump, so ordered a walbro unit, will get back to this...

(while waiting for pump from import parts)

so next google lead me to something called "bore wash" which in what i could gleam simply means the rich cold start air/fuel mix washing the oil of your bores resulting in no compression.
this explains abit, also you google if you need to know more: http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=63977

so tried starting/cranking with foot flat on the loud pedal for an extended period 10-15 seconds, maybe more maybe less, common solution to the said bore wash, to try see if that had indeed occurred...
still no starting...

next i tried to start the car with the MAF connector/plug disconnected to see if it was maybe a faulty/broken MAF unit

[url=http://postimg.org/image/6uznyfgy3/]





still didn't start...

so fuel pump arrived, went to get it fitted (reynolds mechanical in retreat, good service, speak to faizel) as i didnt want to do it myself as i havent before,
fuel pump was a walbro gss340, abit too small for the fuel pump cradle, and the inlet/outlet in straight, where the normal 540 pump has a sideways exiting inlet/outlet, apparently the gss341 and gss342 has the other inlet which is better suited to the 540's application,

540i pierburg oem pump:


walbro gss340:


side by side:


found this kit though which hopefully will allow fitment
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-10011209-walbro-installation-kit-for-gss340-bmw-ford-saab-volvo.html

got a bosch one in temporarily and hey:joy:

car starts:joy:

so was the fuel pump in the end,
after all this i found out about the schrader valve on the fuel rail which you can use to check the fuel pressure, helps allot with trouble shooting a fuel problem or no start issue



[url]

[url=http://postimg.org/image/wdsn569yv/]

[url]

[url=http://postimg.org/image/awvv7u2ud/]

[url]

hope this helps if anyone else's e39/540i wont start

cars been driving since last week, loving every second of it again:inlove:

also replaced the clutch pedal rubber, while i was at it all

only R35 from stealers


[url=http://postimg.org/image/kfw9ss2s9/]



next in line:

new power steering pump as mine is weak and on the way out:cry:

change oil and oil filter

saving for new wheels from gizmo, should have in a month or 2...
then tyres
 

nirvash

Well-known member
thanks guys
im so glad the car is running properly again:=):

its also given me some inspiration to start fixing all the other small issues with the car i could find,
you realize what a difference fixing a small problem can make and it gets you amped to carry that momentum forward:thumbs:

just a couple side notes on my previous post:

the reason i went walbro pump and not a bosch replacement or pierburg oem pump, or any other for that matter is i have had them in two other cars with no issues, and dealer quote for R4500 +- for a fuel pump and a walbro costs R1200 +- and is a trusted pump...

also something to try that i did if experiencing the before mentioned no start issue is putting petrol in the tank, 1st - it mite be empty, 2nd can save you money instead of getting car diagnosed or towed etc, 3rd - have heard stories of some e39's refusing to start and will only start with on occasions 1/4 tank, 1/2 tank, sometimes even more needed
not to sure what causes this if someone could enlighten?

also a quick tip to see/hear if your fuel pump is working on your e39 is remove the bottom half (not backrest) of the rear seats, simple, and listen to hear if the pump primes and runs (humming electric motor sound) when turning the ignition

dealer quote for new power steering pump (brand - Luk) R4700 +-
been looking around and most pumps new cost R4000+, rebuilt R2500+-, and second hand scrap yards etc R750+ to about R2000,
so wanting a new one im looking here as it seems it will be the best deal taking everything into consideration, quality of pump vs price vs etc
best option just do it right and get a new 1 imo

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Cart/Cart...Code=32411141570&partName=Power+Steering+Pump

should work out to about R3500 +-

or here
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-540i-M62_4.4L/Steering/Pump/ES2581687/Cart/
 

nirvash

Well-known member
thought of my old car today so thought i would post some pics as i havent before,

E46 323ci manual
2000 year model
bought with 161 000kms
sold with close to 190 000
18" 335i wheels

reliable, useable and super fun

interior wasn't cleaned before the photo's:flyfun:























































i think i got abit carried away....:fencelook:
 

Redline

Member
Hi Nirvash,

Mine also did not want to start and I too changed my fuel pump, turned out to be a blown fuse:flyfun::argh:

FYI, I got a pierburg pump at master parts for R1200, might want to check with them when pricing for parts, been buying by them years, touch wood no issues.
 
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