Interesting info about oil drain intervals

freerider

Honorary ///Member
Source: http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2007-01-4133

Engine oils are subjected to a series of industry standard engine dynamometer tests to measure their wear protection capability, sludge and varnish formation tendencies, and fuel efficiency among several other performance attributes before they are approved for use in customer engines. However, these performance attributes are measured at the end of tests and therefore, do not provide any information on how the properties have changed during the tests. In one of our previous studies it was observed that engine oil samples collected from fleet vehicles after 12,000 mile drain interval showed 10-15% lower friction and more importantly, an order of magnitude lower wear rate than those of fresh oils. It was also observed that the composition of the tribochemical films formed was quite different on the surface tested with the drain oils from those formed with fresh oils. The objective of this investigation is to demonstrate how the friction and wear performance changed with oil drain intervals. A fleet of three vehicles was run in Las Vegas and oil samples were collected at various drain intervals from 3,000 miles to 15,000 miles. As in the previous study, the results showed that the aged engine oils provide lower friction and much improved wear protection capability. These improvements were observed as early as the 3,000 mile drain interval and continued to the 15,000 mile drain interval. The composition of tribochemical films formed on the surface with the 3,000 mile drain interval is similar to that formed with the 12,000 mile drain interval as seen before. These findings could be an enabler for achieving longer drain interval although several other factors must to be considered.

Moral of the story: Those of you who change oil every 7.5k kms odd to be on the "safe side" are being counterproductive.

Don't change it too often and increase wear.

Don't change it too seldom and increase wear.

There's a sweet-spot, if you will.
 

Hellas

///Member
I think I found mine on the polo: 10k intervals and 238k on the clock. No oil consumption as yet.
 

wynandd

New member
I would like to know what type of oil they did the study on. I have researched oil quite a bit and have come to the conclusion that mineral oil is far inferior to the latest synthetic technology lubricants out there. Speaking of varnish deposits, as I have mentioned before on the "other" forum; I have been told by several people to stay away from Castrol and have actually seen a BMW motor with only about 180000K's on the clock, only ever serviced at the dealer (who uses Catrol exclusively) The deposits and stuff that looks like thick grease, covered the insides of the crank case and caused several oil galleries to clog up, resulting in massive terminal engine seizure! :(
 

freerider

Honorary ///Member
I have been using Liqui-Moly 5W30 and at R380 odd for 5lt I am very happy so far. It is also approved by BMW for long life use just as Castrol is.

I also found out that the Castrol that we get in SA is different (inferior) to that that they get elsewhere in the world.

From http://www.sosoil.co.za

Longtime High Tech SAE 5W-30

Top-quality, state-of-the-art, low-friction motor oil for use all year round. The combination of unconventional basic oils using synthetic technology, together with the latest additive technology, guarantee a motor oil that provides exceptional protection against wear and reduces oil and fuel consumption, while ensuring that the engine is immediately supplied with oil. This product allows for oil change intervals of up to 40,000 km, depending on the manufacturer's specification
 

Nic_s

///Member
SAE 5W-30?? But that's like REALLY thin oil? Isn't thicker considered better??

I use Shell Helix W20-50. Works out a bout R160 @ Masterparts.
 

freerider

Honorary ///Member
The E46 service intervals are 25k, so they needed a long life oil. Mike from SOSOIL (Liqui-Moly South Africa) will be joining the forum to answer any oil related questions.
 
M

Mike1

Guest
Hello Everyone

Michael here from SOS Oil in Cape Town. Thanks for inviting me Don.

Alright guys. Firstly (and without making assumptions) I just want to give everyone some background information on lubricants and oils in specific. There may be mistakes here as I have only been working with oils for a year now. I have however had quite a bit of training. If you disagree with something please let me know and we can correct it.

When looking at oils there are two things to consider:

1. Specification
2. Approvals

Specification:

This is extremely important. Different vehicles call for different oils based on their specifications. Lets see:

Liqui Moly Longtime High Tech 5W30.

This means the following:

The oil is manufactured by: Liqui Moly
Its described as: Longtime High Tech

Thus far this really isnt important.... This however is:

5W30

This above is the viscosity rating of a oil. The 5 refers to the viscosity (Or thickness) of the oil when cold (0 Degrees Celsius). Being a 5 it means it is rather thin when cold.

The 30 refers to the viscosity of the oil when hot (At running temperature).

Now: A 5w oil takes 6 seconds to circulate throughout the engine on start up. This means that in the first 6 seconds after startup your engine is running with virtually no oil (Only a very small amount). Metal against metal as such. :bawling:

SAE 5W-30?? But that's like REALLY thin oil? Isn't thicker considered better??

I use Shell Helix W20-50. Works out a bout R160 @ Masterparts.

If we look at the above post we realise why thicker isnt better. A 20W50 will take 1 minute to circulate in the engine. Once again. This means that for the first 1 minute of driving your vehicles engine is running with Limited Protection.

Then to make it worse the oil thickens to a viscosity of 50 at running temperature. This means that you are putting extra stress on the engine.

Do you guys realise why it is so important to follow the manufacturers recommendations? If they call for a 5W30. You use a 5W30. So no... Thicker isnt always better. The reason you pay so little for the 20W50 is because its probably old spec and is mineral based.

Mineral based Oils are not the greatest when compared to that of a Synthetic. Synthetic Oils gives far superior protection and allow you a huge range of different operating temperatures and loads. Whereas the mineral oil doesnt. You pay for what you get...

The next important thing is the "performance" rating of a oil. The latest and top rating is the "SM Spec". If your oil has this API spec then it means you have the best quality oil available.

The Liqui Moly 5W30 Oil that Freerider is using is a SM spec oil with BMW approval. All newish cars should call for a SM spec. An SL spec for example would be an inferior oil.

Approvals:

Very, very important especially if your vehicle is still under warranty. The major manufacturers will test lubricants and approve them for usage in their vehicles.

No approval = Warranty Void if used.

The issue at hand:

I would like to know what type of oil they did the study on. I have researched oil quite a bit and have come to the conclusion that mineral oil is far inferior to the latest synthetic technology lubricants out there. Speaking of varnish deposits, as I have mentioned before on the "other" forum; I have been told by several people to stay away from Castrol and have actually seen a BMW motor with only about 180000K's on the clock, only ever serviced at the dealer (who uses Catrol exclusively) The deposits and stuff that looks like thick grease, covered the insides of the crank case and caused several oil galleries to clog up, resulting in massive terminal engine seizure! Sad

This is a big issue for us at the moment and Liqui Moly is actually in the progress of discussing and changing the lubrication with BMW because of this issue. We want them to use our oil rather/

**Disclaimer. I in no way am claiming the lubricants mentioned in this post are inferior to that of Liqui Moly. I am not degrading any brands. Simply explaining what went wrong**

The oil used in the above BMW is called: Castrol SLX 5w30.

It meets the recommendations as far as its grade ratings go (Being a 5w30) but its API/Performance rating is the issue.

Castrol SLX is a SL spec oil. Being used in a vehicle that requires a SM spec.

Thats where things go wrong as the technology in the oil (Even though it is a Fully synthetic) is a few years old and it is unable to cope with the performance requirements. Throw in the extended service life and high JHB temperatures and the chemical qualities of the oil will break down as is the case above. A SM spec however would have been fine.

This results in sludge formation and damage to the engine. Now at this point we need to understand that oils are designed for very specific uses. Castrol SLX is a fantastic oil but under Longlife servicing it seems unable to handle the demand of the engine.

The oil Freerider is using is my Liqui Moly Longtime High Tech 5W30. This is a SM spec oil with LONGLIFE approval of up to 40 000km by BMW in Germany. Higher Spec with approvals. You cant go wrong. There is a huge difference between a normal oil and a Longlife Oil.

The Liqui Moly oil is Hydrocracked meaning its Sythetic (Not fully but more or less 90%). If you want a good oil this is a great option at a good price.

:clap:

In closing I feel that almost all oils are good. You just need to use the correct oil to obtain the ideal results.

If you want to see the specs of the two oils here we go:

Liqui Moly:

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/...file/1136 Longtime High Tech SAE 5W-30_EN.pdf

Castrol:

http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/5237_SLX_Professional_OE_5W-30_119562_2007_10.pdf

The approvals are at the bottom of both data sheets. The API ratings are also on the first page of both. Although the SLX Data Sheet is an Australian Sheet it doesnt matter. I am trying to highlight that the SLX Oil has a Longlife Approval from 1998 whereas the Liqui Moly Oil is a 2004 approval. Its a no brainer as to which is better as a longlife oil.

Now at this post I want to point out the info that I have posted is based on the Data Sheet I found above. I have yet to find a Data Sheet that is more up to date or more local to South Africa.

For those wondering. Our oil costs: R338.06 Incl. VAT

I hope this has shed some light on oils and if anyone has any queries please feel free to ask.

Mike

*I like the new forum Don!*
 

Hellas

///Member
Welcome Mike!
Any difference in the oil to be used on diesel engines? Especially the newer generations BMW?
 
M

Mike1

Guest
Pleasure Don (My hand hurts)

Hellas NC - I gotta be off now. But will answer your question in about an hour.

Thanks guys.

Mike
 

Nic_s

///Member
aaahhh... now I see the light.

BUT... what would be a good oil for 18 year old BMW E30 318i???
 

Shady_45

Member
Thanks for the info Mike. Now prepare for the barrage of questions :)
Do products like Prolong etc. which claim to offer protection during the crucial start up of the motor actually work ?
Also related to this, is the conundrum of : start engine-idle(wait to warm)-drive OR start engine-drive to warm ?
I do the start-idle for about 20 seconds and drive slow till the oil temp gauge reaches optimum oil performance temperature.
I currently use castrol edge in a E36 M3. Is it a suitable choice? What in your opinion would be the LM alternative ?
The yanks seem to be convinced about RoyalPurple, any comments?
 

Nic_s

///Member
This is from the E30 Owners Manual.
oilc.jpg


I presume I should stay with W20-50 in my E30??
 
M

Mike1

Guest
Morning guys

Thanks for the comments this far. Lets try answer a few questions:

Welcome Mike!
Any difference in the oil to be used on diesel engines? Especially the newer generations BMW?

Oils are extremely specific. And yes there is a difference between the oils used on petrol and diesel vehicles. In the same way that Petrol oils have an API rating (Of which a SM spec is the best) a Diesel Oil also has a rating of which a CF spec is considered the best.

Most oils are compatible for both petrol and diesel. The Longtime High Tech that I supplied Freerider with is a SM/CF spec which means it conforms to the top diesel spec and can therefore be used in a diesel vehicle that calls for a CF spec.

So if your 330D calls for a CE spec you cannot use a CF spec. Am I making sense? Refer to your manual for what oil and what spec to use. We can find a product from there for you.

aaahhh... now I see the light.

BUT... what would be a good oil for 18 year old BMW E30 318i???

For your vehicle you can use a normal Multigrade 20W50 (Shell Helix for example). We have got a oil for you but I am just waiting on my technician in Germany to confirm that the 20W50 Liqui Moly Oil we have is correct. I should have confirmation by this afternoon and I will get back to you.

Thanks for the info Mike. Now prepare for the barrage of questions Bluebiggrin
Do products like Prolong etc. which claim to offer protection during the crucial start up of the motor actually work ?
Also related to this, is the conundrum of : start engine-idle(wait to warm)-drive OR start engine-drive to warm ?
I do the start-idle for about 20 seconds and drive slow till the oil temp gauge reaches optimum oil performance temperature.
I currently use castrol edge in a E36 M3. Is it a suitable choice? What in your opinion would be the LM alternative ?
The yanks seem to be convinced about RoyalPurple, any comments?

Im prepared! lol

Do products like Prolong etc. which claim to offer protection during the crucial start up of the motor actually work ?

This is the story of my life.... No. Prolong is utter nonsense. It does not work and is falsely advertised. Prolong is old technology that is based on a chlorinated base. In lay mans terms basically its based on a metal working fluid which is used at low temperatures with much less pressure than that of an engine.

Prolong is fabulous for industrial use on slow working Gears and light application (This I have seen myself) but for engine use it does nothing.

When you start your engine it is running metal on metal because overnight etc the oil has all moved to the bottom of the engine. Once the engine is started the oil then starts to circulate again. The problem with prolong is that it goes with the oil so no. Prolong gives you no protection on startup.

Liqui Moly supply a product called Cera Tec. This is a ceramic protection for your engine (far superior to a chlorinated version) which clings to all the parts of your engine. So unlike prolong the Cera Tec will remain on the parts when there is no oil and therefore provides you with that crucial lubrication required on startup. The Cera Tec is also a TUV approved product which means it is laboratory tested for effectiveness and does in fact do as it is advertised. Think of a TUV approval as the SABS mutiplied by a 1000. Cera Tec is also BMW approved but dont quote me :pimp:

Cera Tec also has a lifetime of 50 000km in your engine and we actually use it in our team racing cars (V8 Westbanks) to keep the cars temperatures down (They run about 8 degrees colder with Cera Tec and to save on oil and fuel consumption.

Here is a Data Sheet: http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/3721 Cera Tec_EN.pdf/$file/3721 Cera Tec_EN.pdf

Price: R234.86 (Expensive but worth it considering the benefits it offers)

Also related to this, is the conundrum of : start engine-idle(wait to warm)-drive OR start engine-drive to warm ?

This is highly debatable. :nono:

We believe that you start and drive. The reason for this is because when idling there is very little pressure on the vehicle and no real lubrication (Especially if the car is using a thick oil). When left idling the temperature of the engine increases extremely slowly which simply prolongs the time wasted with no lubrication.

When you start a vehicle and drive away immediately you not only put pressure on the engine which gets the oil circulating quicker (therefore much quicker protection) but the temperature of the engine rises and so does the viscosity of the oil which allows the oil to work better and more effectively.

In other words... Just drive it. Dont leave it idling....

I currently use castrol edge in a E36 M3. Is it a suitable choice? What in your opinion would be the LM alternative ?

Castrol Edge is a very good oil. Its designed specifically for VW and Audi and I cant find any BMW approvals for it... Other than that I cannot fault it.

I would rather supply you with the Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 5W40. This is a Synthetic oil which has longlife approval by BMW (For up to 30 000km).

Here is the Data Sheet: http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/...ec 4100_EN.pdf/$file/3700 top tec 4100_EN.pdf

Price: R383.66 Incl. VAT (For a 5 Litre)

The yanks seem to be convinced about RoyalPurple, any comments?

Royal Purple is a Synthetic Oil and is really expensive but really good quality and is a brilliant oil. Big in America but simply not affordable in South Africa.

I hope this has shed some more light :mmm::slap:
I look forward to everyones comments.

Mike

Nicholas said:
This is from the E30 Owners Manual.
oilc.jpg


I presume I should stay with W20-50 in my E30??

Yup. If it calls for a 20W50 you use it :nono: lol

Im just waiting on our technician to get back to me with a confirmation of exactly which 20W50 spec you should be using.

Mike
 

Nic_s

///Member
Thanks Mike :)


EDIT: You don't by any chance know what viscosity oil is good for a Gearbox? Here is a guy in Somerset that reconns Gearboxes and Diff's and he suggests a 75w.
 

Shady_45

Member
Thanks a million mike.
Your passion and wealth of knowledge regarding lubricants is invaluable and much appreciated.
 

Uber Soldat

///Member
WOW! A wealth of information in this thread! Thanks Mike.

I have a question for you.

Before i changed my oil at about 194 000km, my lifters got a little noisy (They weren't noisy before this), car is now at 211 948km and due for another oil change. Now whenever i start the car up in the morning i get lifter noise until it warms up.
I'm running Castrol High mileage 20w-50. Would a change in oil, mabe a different weight, cure this problem?
 

Nic_s

///Member
Uber Soldat said:
WOW! A wealth of information in this thread! Thanks Mike.

I have a question for you.

Before i changed my oil at about 194 000km, my lifters got a little noisy (They weren't noisy before this), car is now at 211 948km and due for another oil change. Now whenever i start the car up in the morning i get lifter noise until it warms up.
I'm running Castrol High mileage 20w-50. Would a change in oil, mabe a different weight, cure this problem?

This too I would like to know.
 

wynandd

New member
Hi Mike and welcome! Thanks for all the fantastic data! Like I said in my post, I did some research and your post just confirms what I have been trying to find out! I would love to use the oil you suggested to HellasNC. Could you please let me know where I could find Liqui Moly 5W-30 SM in Port Elizabeth? I drive a 320 diesel. I have thus far been using the Shell Diesel Synthetic, as prescribed for use in the VW and Audi "pume dusse" diesels. I applied my own logic to use this oil, as it has an extremely high specification and is not even sold anywhere, except from VW/Audi parts departments. The specifictaion on the oil is: Shell Helix Diesel HX7 AV, 5W-30. API SL/CF, ACEA A3/B3/B4. Would you reckon that is a good alternative to your Liqui Moly?
 
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