BMW F10 M5 Maintenance, Issues & Out of Plan Items

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
AdiS's post on the E46 together with more and more people asking for advice on this car made me want to start this post. There are other long time owners that might want to chime in and I can edit the main post (or a mod can) with updated info. A lot of info is available for other markets as well but there are some quirks for the south african market/hot weather conditions and our fuel type that may might find useful. I am sure there is debate that will arise, but this is based on MY experience having daily driven the car (less so in the last 2 years). My car was under plan for 7 years and 135000km. I did approved mods (Schnitzer Suspension, Akrapovic exhaust) under plan. Downpipes as plan ended and have had BM3 shortly after this.

I hope someone will find this useful and better than reading my rambling thread on my M5 that isn't really focused on much of anything> This is also just a start and hopefully I can add more over time.

I have seen some absolute lemons come up in the market and I have a mate who unfortunately bought one expecting to emulate the experience of my ownership. As with any car, getting to high mileages is very dependent on the care, maintenance and treatment that the car gets over its life. Similarly, when modded and appropriately fuelled, these cars make extreme amounts of power VERY easily which has resulted in transmission and engine failures when not done with the required supporting mods (which can get expensive relative to the 'cheap' power available: the base components of these cars are quite beefy to start off with so any upgrades are not going to be cheap). There are guys like me that are well over 100000km and others like Richard that are way over 200000km on the platform already. There are others on their 3rd engine and 2nd clutch before 70000km.

The only major factory engine issues are leaky injectors and a year-1 oil pump issue (which was fixed at dealers for the most part). When you read US forums you will find that many guys had rod issues. It took a VERY long time for proper software to become available. JB4 cars with careful owners were fine, but there was a time where people were changing random hex values, seeing what the effect was and then selling it at a 'tune'...

The M5 is not really the sharpest drive, nor is it the most powerful or the most luxurious. What it is, though, is a family muscle car that can make you feel like God himself and then just as easily remind you that you are not. There are few cars that I can think of that would deliver close to 400kw in stock form (it dynoed between 388 and 418 when I got it depending on the happiness or stinginess of the dyno) all day every day without ANY of the drama you would find getting a hot hatch, AWD sedan or even other BMWs to that level. Being rear wheel drive, it doesn't put all that power down off the line very well (the new M5 shows this off well, in that it takes a full second (or more) off the F10 time just by being AWD. The F10 though shines from 100-200 (and beyond). A real autobahn missile which we don't really get to enjoy as intended in SA.

Buying Advice

LCI vs. Pre-LCI
Lights:
The early cars (2012 and 2013) come with adaptive Xenon lights (really just high beam assist) and LED indicators. I have not needed a bulb change yet, nor have I had water ingress or any headlight related issues. They have round halos. LCI lights are adaptive LEDs and have squared off halos. These in theory last longer. In reality they both last a rather long time. Retrofitting these is an extensive exercise that will probably require a change of the FRM and ZGW modules in the car, rewiring of the harness and coding. There are different harnesses over the years so this is not really a DIY exercise, even if you get the lights for around 20-30K.

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Rear lights are a very minor change that only owners will notice. The third bar is continuous and the bars themselves are thinner. This is a plug and play retrofit if you would like to do it (realistically only if you can find a set between R5000 and R7500 at a scrapyard.

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Engine power remained unchanged for the base car with the LCI. At some point coil packs were changed from Bosch to Delphi units. The Delphi units from the F90 M5 are a direct replacement for the F10. There was an injector revision later on in the LCIs.

Transmission: The DCT box is a Getrag Powershift 7DCI700 unit and remained unchanged between years and trims. There is updated software available that improves the driveability in traffic (this should already be on any 2015+ cars). This is a very well built unit, has been very reliable but note if modded the question is not if, but when it will let go as the car WILL make well beyond the torque limits of the stock clutches. Serious power requires upgraded SSP or Dodson clutches and sintered baskets. This is an approximately R80 to R100K exercise (might be a little more now). together with fluids etc. This, together with modded sideshafts will be needed before you need rods/pistons.

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Of course BMW says that the fluid doesn't need to be changed... and of course they are wrong. I had mine changed at 90000km. Others suggest sooner. I want to do a DCT oil and filter change again now at 145000. Dealers have horror stories to tell about owners who have changed fluid and then the gearbox becomes wonky. This can be down to many things but one of them IS that the change could have been done too late and clearances coupled to viscosity of the new oil result in issues. There are drive in adaptations that need to be done on a lift for the gearbox (again with ISTA+). These are not always done properly.

Competition package
The competition pack adds several hardware changes that are possible to retrofit:

Front and rear swaybars
Slightly quicker steering rack on centre (it is a variable rack on both comp and non-comp)
Revised e-Diff settings
Revised suspension (10mm lower)
Revised engine software

IMHO if you are buying a non competition pack car the best and most noticeable mod is the swaybars for day to day use. You will likely not notice the difference. I don't know of any owners on here who noticed a major difference between their cars and the comp pack at launch or with any of the special editions either in 421 or 441kw forms (eg Pure Metal Silver, 30 Jahre, Competition Edition). That said it is difficult to compare cars once you have started to add things and as it adapts to you over time.

Seats & Interior
Seats were available in two styles: The base seat which is clad in smooth nappa leather, heated by default and the option seat which is heated and cooled with perforated nappa leather and additional 'ribs' stitched into it. Both are fully electric but neither are active despite what you might read (bolster moves with cornering as with E60 option seats).

Interior trim in SA seems to have been carbon, Piano black (individual) or aluminium (Trace). I have yet to see a car with wood other than Piano Black. These are different to what you would find on the base F10. The centre console is a different design and layout. Either way, note the centre console is also wrapped in nappa leather in stock form. The carbon fibre and Piano Black options replace this. It is no longer possible to order factory carbon so if you are buying one and want the carbon, you need to wait for eBay (and be prepared to pay up to 40K for a set before shipping).

It is worth looking for a car that has the alcantara head liner and nappa leather dashboard/door cards. Extra points for red interior... These make the car feel alot more premium and are things you will 'see, touch and feel' most regularly which are always most important IMHO.

The steering wheel is the one big change between LCI and Pre-LCI. This is an EASY change but NOT A CHEAP change as it is an M5/6 specific item (you can't use parts other than the airbag from other F series models with a similar M sport or even identical M wheel of an F80 or F82). You could get lucky and find a crashed car but these don't stick around for long.

... Navigation/NBT is the other big change on the interior. This comes with a connected drive system that still works (the Pre-LCI is not connected any longer and can't work with phone data any longer). It also has iDrive Touch which you can retrofit but is just a party trick... I retrofitted the touch module. The chunkier wheel is better to use... but don't bother with the rest of the setup.

All of them have bluetooth streaming which is all I really care about. Bang and Olufsen sound system has a fancy and very expensive centre tweeter that can fail as it is motorised. these are replaced under WARRANTY but NOT MOTORPLAN. The speakers themselves are better than the base system (base in our M5s was the HK in the regular F10). You should not pay too much of a premium for this.

At current pricing, it is worth paying the premium for LCI to get the expensive steering wheel upgrade as well as the 'connected' connected drive system and newer software even though bought could be retrofitted.

Driver aids are a matter of preference. In this generation they are really party tricks that you don't make much use of (I didn't anyway and I went to the trouble of retrofitting some).

Limited Editions

Pure Metal Silver (10 in SA TBC) - Competition pack, CCBs and a 100K paint job. Numbered plaque (1 of - not individually numbered).

30 Jahre (2 in SA TBC) (Individually numbered plaque, embroidered and contrast-stitched interior, sills, competition pack, CCB)

Competition Edition (30 in SA TBC) - Left-over M Performance Parts added to a Competition pack car. Has 601M wheels and a specific alcantara and leather interior with white stitching.
 
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TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
General Cost of Ownership
As with any such car this is relative. For a car that makes 400kw and can be daily driven for 100000+km without disintegrating, it is amazing. Compared to a Toyota Corolla? Not so much.

Oil & Fluids
Fortunately the car doesn't use very exotic oil. It is relatively inexpensive and I keep a litre in the boot just in case I need it. Of course BMW says it lasts a long time and of course you should change it in half that time. Most owners who bought these cars to keep them 'added' an oil service in between. At R2K at the dealer it is a no brainer to just do it there. 10000km stock and 7500 modded in my case. This will be up for debate. I have stuck to the oil the car has always used (BMW branded Castrol, then Shell when they changed) but Motul, Ravenol and Liqui Moly seem to be considered upgrades.

The car has an inherent flaw that BMW only patched during the life of the car. There are rubber hoses for the turbo coolant feeds. being just above the turbos in the 'hot V' means they perish rather rapidly. The first sign of this is normally a strange burning smell that you cannot track down. This will be followed by a low coolant warning (The first time you will be convinced this is a sensor issue because the main coolant reservoir will be full... there is another reservoir at the back right of the engine bay feeding the turbos and the water-cooled DMUs. Because the coolant leaks on to the turbos the coolant instantly vaporises. This doesn't give you the 'typical' coolant smell. Because the car has so many fans, tracking down the smell can be tough (I thought it was a piece of plastic caught on my exhaust and put the car on the lift the first time it happened). You have to pressurise the system to see the leak. BMW will replace the rubber lines and add heat wraps... however this will not stop it happening again. I had this done 3 times. The solution is to convert these to silicone hoses (there is a replacement kit for the entire line from Project Gamma or you can have hoses cut to size).

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DCT fluid I have mentioned above: Is Pentosin DCT fluid from BMW. The upgrade kits from SSP and Dodson include the same fluid IIRC. No need to change it. If you are changing your oil, consider fitting a larger billet oil pan for cooling at the same time.

If the DCT transmission is leaking fluid, shift quality will degrade rapidly.

Adaptive Suspension

The adaptive suspension was replaced on my car (leaking strut) at a cost to motorplan of around R70K. This would apparently be more as a 'private' person. At this point, fitting a set of KW V3s with the delete kit is probably a better spend of the money.

The AC Schnitzer springs are now NLA. You will have to find a car with them or get a used set. Though made by Eibach, they are not the same. Many owners I've spoken to find the H&R and Eibach too low. The ACS springs are somewhere in between these and the competition pack lowering.

Wheels & Tyres

Tyres are probably going to be your biggest expense. There are really four options to harness that power. Cheaping out on tyres is not recommended.

Michelin Pilot Supersport (Still available in OEM sizes but otherwise discontinued)
Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (Might not be star rated)
Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 (N rated)
Toyo R888

Be prepared to spend between R16000 and 22000 for a set depending on whether you go 19s or 20s or whether there is a promo running. Buying from BMW gets you the 'expensive' alignment and road force balancing thrown in (dealer dependent) so factor that in.

Wheels themselves are strong and it is tough to find aftermarket wheels that look better without spending astronomical amounts of money:

The 343M is made by Fuchs and is forged. it is the lightest weight stock wheel.

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The 601M is the competition pack wheel and to the horror of many at the time is not forged. However it is very strong. The manufacturer was never confirmed but likely Cromodora (italy)

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The 345M is the stock 19" wheel on the base car and is made by Cromodora (Front) and BBS (rear) which is strange but a fun fact.

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M6 versions of these wheels are half an inch wider and have offsets that WILL NOT FIT the M5. Do not buy these thinking you will be able to live with them. The front is fine by the rear is not. Do not engage with any seller that claims they will fit. This goes for aftermarket wheels in M6 offsets as well.



General Engine: Oil Leaks, Control, Bearings etc.


BMW appears to have learned from the errors of the E60 in terms of reliability and the motor itself is fairly solid. That said, it is not immune to oil leaks. (Turbo feeds and the multi layer sump). The PCV valves are easy to change and relatively inexpensive.

Rear main seal failures are not common. I inspected the rear main seal at 143000km and it was still in good shape.

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Valve cover leaks are not common.
Intake leaks CAN happen but are not common. It is a mission to have these done as they are on the bottom of the motor (exhaust is at the top/centre of the motor where the turbos are).

Leaks from the multi-layer sump can be time consuming to fix as the sealant takes a day to cure (ideally longer). The motor needs to be suspended/supported during this process as the subframe needs to be removed.

These cars don't suffer from actuator issues as with the prior generation.

Any car that exhibits the above should be given extra scrutiny... either poor service history, evidence of accident damage/repair or 'distasteful' modding.

Bearings are not a weak point on this car. Even modded, the conrods will fail before the bearings do. There are many posts recently from one or two US shops saying 'they have seen alot of bearing issues recently'... This is creating FUD (Fear, uncertainty and doubt). Amazing how these suddenly crop up when tuners have been working on the platform for nearly a decade now and it hasn't been a major issue before... until cars ended up at these one or two shops... says more about the shop. High power modded cars experienced conrod issues before bearing issues. Would appreciate tuners chipping in here as I have limited knowledge of this beyond the M5 owners in SA. The guys who have experienced failures on the motor are (as mentioned above) first quarter of the first year owners who didn't have the oil pump changed and those who were making a lot of power before the 'full' tuning capabilities were unlocked.

AC System

DO NOT buy a car with a faulty aircon on the basis of a conversation. This goes for ANY F10 and not just the M5. This could be gas (if it really was, the sales person would have just refilled it). The compressor can develop internal faults (this throws a back end code) and the evap unit can go bad. You are sitting with a R30K+ expense that requires your dash and centre console to be removed to fix it. I have had this issue (fortunately under plan) at around 120000km.

Brakes
This car has a very good Brembo braking system and it attracts very high repair costs. There is no real upgrade that makes a lot of sense as these cars will never see much track time (outside of the novelty of a track day here or there). That said, discs are the big expense and last relatively long. I got 60000km on average out of fronts and rears were replaced at 110000km. The OEM "M Compound" pads don't really need to be upgraded. As with any high performance braking system using dot 4 fluid, regular change is essential. This should be changed every 2 years under normal circumstances.

The rear handbrake has never failed and they seem to have ironed out issues related to this (across all manufacturers). It does have quite a weedy looking rear caliper but such is life. You only notice it if someone draws attention to it.

Diff
Rear Axle Service is relatively inexpensive. This is another item I have done 2x in 140000km. Inspect the diff for signs of leaks at the shafts. These are strong units and it is really the side shafts that need to be upgraded at higher torque levels (much higher than you will likely see with bolt ons and off the shelf maps). By this point you will have already upgraded your transmission and this will just be your new weak link.

Wheel Bearings/hubs
Wheel bearings come pre-mounted in the hub. This makes it relatively expensive (R3-4000 for the job). I have replaced 2 front wheel bearings and 3 rear wheel bearings in 140000km. I have my suspicions around the cause of these as since fitting the 601Ms I have not had this issue recur. I am sure there is some way to replace the bearing only. Be careful not to over-torque the wheel bolts or allow workshops to use impact wrenches. You will end up needing hubs and/or lugs.
 
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F21GP

Active member
Thanks @TurboLlew , this was very informative and gives me a idea on what to expect when motorplan ends in next year or two in relation to engine, dct and braking.

Tires I've paid around the same for Michelin pilot super sports in 21" form (R25000). Planning on keeping for a few years and owned since new and maintained meticulously so am confident I have done what I can to have a solid vehicle out of motorplan. Car is sitting on 61000km now.

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hingisp

New member
Excellent stuff, thanks a million Sir, for taking the time to write out this highly informative post. Appreciate it!

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Budleigh

Member
Great thread - always informative and handy to have a ballpark on potential costs and practical issues, rather than just saying it will explode three times a month.

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ANiMOSiTY

BMW Car Club Member
Great post Llew!

They are incredible cars.
If you like turbo cars and M cars, they are really one of the best FEELING cars, IMO, and it has a lot to do with the hydraulic steering and the good ol' M-esque engineering feat of not using bushings between the chassis and subframe. They communicate exceptionally well and if you're used to anything newer, they feel super special, IMO.

Something to note, the difference between a base model and a Competition pack in terms of feel, is significant.
You left out that the spring rates are 20% stiffer and damping is also 20% more firm (M5Post reference).
 

TurboLlew

Honorary ///Member
@TurboLew is this the S63Tu engine ? Same but newer version found in the X5M ?

The Tu has a number of differences and fixed many of the "N63" problems that the original S63 is plagued by, notably having the cylinders go out of round, electrical/harness problems, issues with injectors, wastegate issues etc. The reason most of the early X5 and X6Ms are so cheap is because of these issues many of which have no permanent fix (there was a care package which you can read about they they did deploy as well as injector updates over time etc). Earlier cars would have lived with the issues for many miles before the 'care package' and other interventions hence might be at a greater stage of wear than others. It isn't all doom and gloom though because with investment in these cars, especially at the prices you can pick them up at these days, you can have 400 all-wheel-kw of goodness for a good deal even if you end up putting 6 figures into it.

The Tu in the f10 still suffers from carbon build up albeit to a lesser degree (carbon cleaning requires engine to be suspended) and is not immune from valve stem seal issues.
 

Gordvisr

Well-known member
Thanks for your input. The car currently sits at 155XXX, has a full service history at Capetown SMG, prepared myself for what might be and restore what need to be. Car is quite clean for the age and was looked after, somewhere in 2020 it exchanged hands, tuning was done on it from what i can see, there is a "piggy" in the engine bay , it is disconnected , i still need to see what it actually is. Currently not interested in connecting it, first off go through everything and get all up to spec.
 
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