Ratslaaf@OBDWorx said:
Good save... :=):
-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
E92 M3 'refresher' thread
- Thread starter Ratslaaf
- Start date
Good save... :=):
Its not detonation. At all.Ratslaaf@OBDWorx said:
The WPC treated bearings are a better bet as they have more clearance than the VAC bearings.
Remember, WPC treatment is applied to the OEM bearings. To make them more durable.
This is an extremely good scientific post and the conclusions are the same. WPC FTW
S65 Bearing
ere's a possible solution I haven't yet seen discussed. The idea was first pitched to me by Auto Talent in Los Angeles. I forgot all about that, but then re-pitched by m3post user 'e92zero.' WPC has a micro shot peening process that they say reduces friction without changing dimensions of the treated surface. WPC uses this treatment on many surfaces including engine bearings. It's hard to imagine engine bearing thickness wouldn't be affected by the WPC treatment because we're looking at clearances in the ten-thousandths of an inch. E92Zero proposed to send my reference bearings to WPC for treatment then let me take proper measurements when they returned. But as pure luck would have it, Auto Talent had already sent out a complete set of bearings for the WPC treatment and they arrived while I was in the area collecting all of the data for this article.
While on my way to EAS to measure the VAC coated bearings, Auto Talent was gracious enough to allow to measure two sets of bearing shells (two uppers, two lowers). I documented and photographed the results as follows:
Factory Reference
WPC-1
WPC-2
Top (Blue)
0.07885
0.07875
0.07870
Bottom (Red)
0.07865
0.07860
0.07850
Just as I had hoped, the bearings were thinner than stock. After collecting the measurements, Auto Talent allowed me to take the same two specimens to Van Dyne Engineering for our much more thorough bearing measurement tests. While at Van Dyne Engineering, we put the WPC coated bearings in our factory connecting rods to obtain proper clearance measurements. I torqued the WPC treated bearings into two factory connecting rods to obtain the data listed below.
WPC-1
WPC-2
Crank Journal
2.04655
2.04660
Rod Bore
2.04825
2.04820
Bearing Clearance
0.00170
0.00160
Thanks to Sam and Zolti @ Auto Talent for letting me take these measurements and share them with the community. And another shout out to e92zero for bringing the WPC treatment back to my attention.
So basically the WPC treated bearings give you more clearance and they are more durable. There are guys in the US that have been running WPC treated bearings for over 30 000 miles supercharged and when they inspect the bearings they are perfect. No touching
Ratslaaf
///Member
Ouch, it's been a while since I've updated this thread!
Well, a bunch of things have been done so far. Unfortunately I have precious little time for 'private jobs' at the moment, but as I have a little time I spend it on this.
First up, all the bearings have now been removed and the replacements have been installed. Thanks again to Peter that made his time available in order to assist in getting it all nicely torqued up. And let me tell you, just the removal and re-installation of the bearings took around 16 hours. Yes, I'm not kidding, 16 hours. Granted, we took our time getting it done, including checking journal and bearing clearances for each and every bearing. I now know why it costs so much labour to get this job done.
The gray residue you seeing is the LM assembly paste we used in order to keep the bearings lubricated prior to starting the engine. Normal oil would have evaporated by now...
I've also managed to get the sump nicely cleaned up - it's going to the engineers this week to have the dipstick installed. I will then do I final clean on the sump before it's fitted. You can see how massive this sump is and the 'dry-sump' strategy BMW took for this car.
Also, I've managed to find guys that were able to get my clutch (both of them) and pressure plate rebuilt. They also did a very slight skim on the DMF for me
Lastly, the oil scavengers for the sump has also now been cleaned up nicely. I'm just waiting on two little o-rings so I can re-assemble these. During this build, each and every o-ring, seal or gasket gets replaced.
Well, a bunch of things have been done so far. Unfortunately I have precious little time for 'private jobs' at the moment, but as I have a little time I spend it on this.
First up, all the bearings have now been removed and the replacements have been installed. Thanks again to Peter that made his time available in order to assist in getting it all nicely torqued up. And let me tell you, just the removal and re-installation of the bearings took around 16 hours. Yes, I'm not kidding, 16 hours. Granted, we took our time getting it done, including checking journal and bearing clearances for each and every bearing. I now know why it costs so much labour to get this job done.
The gray residue you seeing is the LM assembly paste we used in order to keep the bearings lubricated prior to starting the engine. Normal oil would have evaporated by now...
I've also managed to get the sump nicely cleaned up - it's going to the engineers this week to have the dipstick installed. I will then do I final clean on the sump before it's fitted. You can see how massive this sump is and the 'dry-sump' strategy BMW took for this car.
Also, I've managed to find guys that were able to get my clutch (both of them) and pressure plate rebuilt. They also did a very slight skim on the DMF for me
Lastly, the oil scavengers for the sump has also now been cleaned up nicely. I'm just waiting on two little o-rings so I can re-assemble these. During this build, each and every o-ring, seal or gasket gets replaced.
Ratslaaf
///Member
Well, because it's no longer possible to buy that specific clutch kit, I had no choice but to have the clutch and pressure plates rebuilt. It was either that, or spend R22k on a new DMF and another R7k on a clutch kit.
There's actually two clutch disks in this assembly. The one you see, then another one as part of the pressure pack assembly. The pressure pack had to be stripped and the internal clutch had to be rebuilt, with mating surfaces skimmed. Then, the clutch you see was rebuilt and its mating surface on the DMF skimmed.
The whole assembly was then balanced up properly for fitment.
There's actually two clutch disks in this assembly. The one you see, then another one as part of the pressure pack assembly. The pressure pack had to be stripped and the internal clutch had to be rebuilt, with mating surfaces skimmed. Then, the clutch you see was rebuilt and its mating surface on the DMF skimmed.
The whole assembly was then balanced up properly for fitment.
nice progress 
can you take pics of the inside of the sump Im trying to get ideas to baffle my sump and it would be great to see what BMW did for this
PS I can get the clutch kit but the flywheel is not available aftermarket
can you take pics of the inside of the sump Im trying to get ideas to baffle my sump and it would be great to see what BMW did for this
PS I can get the clutch kit but the flywheel is not available aftermarket
Ratslaaf
///Member
For giggles, I placed all the old bearings side be side in order to see what the whole impact was:
Bearings are 1 to 8 from left to right, top and bottom.
Some close up shots of the bottom bearings
This is the 4th bottom bearing, note the imperfection in the actual shell. Not sure if that was a piece of sand that got caught up during assembly. There's no wear marks evident on the crank, so this was a weird one.
Aaand then a close up of the edges of the shells. Yup, that's copper you see on the edges
Not sure if these are good enough bud?
I've mocked up the scavenging lines so you can see how the system works:
The left is the back of the motor. As you can see, the topmost pump sucks oil from the back sump and pumps it to the top of the motor. The oil that runs down from the top ends up in the front sump, which is pumped back into the back sump by the bottom pump. Not sure if this makes any sense?
Last but not least, here's a pic of the nozzles that are attached to the bottom of the cylinders, just above the crank. These pump oil onto the cylinder walls in order to lubricate the pistons.
And there you have it, a quasi dry sump :rollsmile:
Bearings are 1 to 8 from left to right, top and bottom.
Some close up shots of the bottom bearings
This is the 4th bottom bearing, note the imperfection in the actual shell. Not sure if that was a piece of sand that got caught up during assembly. There's no wear marks evident on the crank, so this was a weird one.
Aaand then a close up of the edges of the shells. Yup, that's copper you see on the edges
moranor@axis said:
Not sure if these are good enough bud?
I've mocked up the scavenging lines so you can see how the system works:
The left is the back of the motor. As you can see, the topmost pump sucks oil from the back sump and pumps it to the top of the motor. The oil that runs down from the top ends up in the front sump, which is pumped back into the back sump by the bottom pump. Not sure if this makes any sense?
Last but not least, here's a pic of the nozzles that are attached to the bottom of the cylinders, just above the crank. These pump oil onto the cylinder walls in order to lubricate the pistons.
And there you have it, a quasi dry sump :rollsmile:
Ratslaaf
///Member
Some more updates!!
All the oil supply piping installed and orings replaced
Nicely put together
Now, I should've probably stopped here and called it a day. But that's not my style...
And the reason for all this? Well look how dirty the covers are.
The oil filter hosing removed. You can see lotsa areas that I couldn't clean before. Like I said, all seals are getting replaced and is much easier to do when the motor out of the car.
All the oil supply piping installed and orings replaced
Nicely put together
Now, I should've probably stopped here and called it a day. But that's not my style...
And the reason for all this? Well look how dirty the covers are.
The oil filter hosing removed. You can see lotsa areas that I couldn't clean before. Like I said, all seals are getting replaced and is much easier to do when the motor out of the car.
