E46 M54B22 Confusing Misfire

DJGyron

Member
Good day All!

My apologies if this topic has been covered before. I'm still having this persistant issue occur on my vehicle.

I have been experiencing a misfire that only occurs when my car comes to a stop during idle after reaching optimal temperature. If I come to a robot and stop for a while, the engine revs drop during idle and it hovers around 300 to 600, fluctuating. I would need to switch off the car and restart after 5 seconds. In most cases the misfire disappears, but then returns when I'm back at another robot waiting for the lights to turn green. This only happens during idle. During normal driving in town or on the freeway, there is no misfire.

I have done a full major service, new oil, new oil filter, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new air filter.

I have replaced the MAF sensor and cleaned the idle control valve with carb cleaner and it operates freely without getting stuck, but still misfiring at idle.

I have check all the hoses and the air intake boots and there are no leaks. Still misfiring at idle.

The following codes were detected:
P0313
P1349-4 - fuel cut off
P1351-5 Misfire
P1345-2 Misfire
P1343-1 Misfire
P1353-6 Misfire
P1083 - Bank 1 Sensor
P1085 - Bank 2 Fuel Mixture too lean
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel
P0300 - random multiple misfire detected  

I'm at a loss trying to figure out what it could be. I'm not sure if it is the coils, but then at normal driving speeds there is no misfire, no engine check light, nothing. Could it be the fuel pump? Not sure if it is that either. Could it be a problem with loss of compressing? Perhaps, given that the engine is doing 288k on the clock for a 2003 model. The rings could be a little worn.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

rudolphc83

New member
Hi

I might be way off but just maybe not. I had exactly the same symptoms with my Opel Corsa. Also did everything you did and the problem persisted. Only after replacing the fuel pressure regulator after some advise from a friend did it fix my problem. Basically if the pressure regulator goes and the pressure in the fuel rail is too low it mimics the symptoms of a bad fuel pump, blocked injectors, lean fuel mixture, etc. Worth looking at that.
 

Spiro

///Member
i'm extra curious on this one , but you have a tell tale on the error

P1083 - Bank 1 Sensor

if the problem is around the intake camshaft sensor the other codes are very viable , however, the Fuel pump and Fuel filter with built in regulator can be changed for sure measure, keep in mind, the low fuel pressure warning , the function of the FPR, is on idle low air pressure is pushed to the FPR, causing the pressure to be high, and as you rev it increases the air volume to the FPR causing the pressure to "sort of low" or the inverse of what is happening at idle, you can test the FPR by maybe using a new line and a syringe , cheap test will probably cost you about R50 in air line and R6 for a syringe from dischem

further to this , check that all coils are clean and seated 100%, and check the grounding wire of the coils line
 

Steph745

Member
Although you've done the intake boots maybe you are still also getting a vacuum leak through the PCV system? What is the condition of those pipes?
 

DJGyron

Member
Steph745 said:
Although you've done the intake boots maybe you are still also getting a vacuum leak through the PCV system? What is the condition of those pipes?

I haven't had a good look at those. I'll have to put the car up tomorrow and have a look and then report back.


Spiro said:
i'm extra curious on this one , but you have a tell tale on the error

P1083 - Bank 1 Sensor

if the problem is around the intake camshaft sensor the other codes are very viable , however, the Fuel pump and Fuel filter with built in regulator can be changed for sure measure, keep in mind, the low fuel pressure warning , the function of the FPR, is on idle low air pressure is pushed to the FPR, causing the pressure to be high, and as you rev it increases the air volume to the FPR causing the pressure to "sort of low" or the inverse of what is happening at idle, you can test the FPR by maybe using a new line and a syringe , cheap test will probably cost you about R50 in air line and R6 for a syringe from dischem

further to this , check that all coils are clean and seated 100%, and check the grounding wire of the coils line

I'll have to check out that sensor.

I'll also do a check on that air line to the fuel filter regulator. 

I find it perplexing how one little fault causes so many problems, putting you out of pocket in the process.
 

applehero

///Member
Have you got access to diagnostic equipment? Would be interested to see what your Fuel Trim values are - Short Term, Long Term, Additive, Multiplicative.
 

DJGyron

Member
Have you got access to diagnostic equipment? Would be interested to see what your Fuel Trim values are - Short Term, Long Term, Additive, Multiplicative.
I have INPA, but it is confusing to work with. Furthermore, everything is in German.

The fuel trims would give some indication where the problem may be. I'm suspecting the O2 sensors may need to be replaced, but before I make such an investment, I need to be certain.

Do you perhaps know of any other software that is compatible with the K+DCAN cable that is at least easier to interpret, including with fuel trims analysis?
 

Spiro

///Member
I have INPA, but it is confusing to work with. Furthermore, everything is in German.

The fuel trims would give some indication where the problem may be. I'm suspecting the O2 sensors may need to be replaced, but before I make such an investment, I need to be certain.

Do you perhaps know of any other software that is compatible with the K+DCAN cable that is at least easier to interpret, including with fuel trims analysis?
i'm using inpa 5.0.2, which is in English.... pm me , will send you the English files
 

Crash_Nemesis

///Member
Possible things to consider.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) / Oil Seperator blockage of sorts, causing erratic idle and misfire as excess oil is now getting into the cylinders. Do you see white/blue smoke at the rear of the car?

Another solution is your coil packs. I see you changed spark plugs etc but have not replaced coil packs. Try moving one of the misfiring cylinder coils to one that is not and see if the misfire follows.
 
Top