Can a 200,000 km F30 320d Still Be a Good Buy?

Clint@MMS AUTO

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
I was in the market for an F30 320d — something to run around in, preferably with a bit more mileage on it so that I could document the experience of owning a higher-mileage diesel BMW: what to look out for, what eventually needs attention, what these cars are really like beyond 200,000 km and, at some point, the infamous N47 timing-chain replacement.

Anyway, long story short...
I logged onto the forum the other day for the first time in a while and came across @lebofa 's For Sale thread. Then I realised the thread was about six years old. 😂

Since I know him and he literally lives three streets away from me, I figured I’d drop him a message and see what had happened with the sale.

We arranged for me to quickly come and have a look at the car — not inspect it, just spend a few minutes looking at it in his garage.

He mentioned that he had owned it from new, had done oil services every 10,000 km, and had maintained it properly throughout its life.

Being a 2014 model, I certainly wasn’t expecting to find a “like new” example. What I found instead was a good, honest car.

It isn’t perfect, but it is in far better condition than probably 90% of the used cars I come across.

We agreed on a price, I paid the deposit that evening, settled the balance the following day, and arranged to collect it on Friday morning at 08:30.

Since he lives so close, I literally walked to his house and drove the car back home. 😂

Then my wife saw it... And apparently it is now her run-around because the Fortuner has suddenly become “too big to park at work”. 😂

Either way, the goal remains the same: get the car as close to 100% mechanically perfect as possible and use it.

At some point during the day I was ordering parts for another vehicle, so I decided to add a few service items for the 320d to the order.

I ended up with:
• 3 × oil filters
• Fuel filter
• Cabin air filter
• Engine air filter
• New ZF 8HP oil sump/filter kit

All of the fluids — engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, differential oil, etc. — will eventually be switched over to their Motul equivalents.

After completing the day’s work and bookings, I moved the 320d into the workshop and put it onto the lift.

My plan with the engine is to gradually clean out whatever accumulated soot, contamination or deposits may be present after 200,000 km by doing three oil services within roughly 1,000 km.

The first two will be done using Liqui Moly 5W-30, mainly because I have some extra stock taking up space in the cupboard.

The idea is simple: fresh oil and filter, run it for a short interval, drain it, replace the filter and repeat. Once I’m satisfied that everything is nice and clean, I’ll make the permanent switch over to Motul engine oil.

Once the car was on the lift, this was actually the first opportunity I had to properly inspect it. For a 200,000 km car, it is a fairly clean and decent specimen.

Things I like about it:​

• Full service history, including 10,000 km oil-service intervals and a file full of invoices covering the car over the years
• Known history, so there are no concerns regarding accident repairs or mileage tampering
• Fairly clean inside and out
• One owner from new
• OEM BMW M Performance Power Kit
• Clearly not abused — mature gentleman owner rather than some punk kid 😂
• Drives extremely well: smooth, quiet and no funny business
• OEM BMW water pump, vibration-damper pulley and several other items replaced relatively recently at BMW

Things I picked up that will need attention:​

Front suspension
Both front shocks are leaking.

So the list currently includes:
• Front shocks
• New shock mounts
• Bump stops
• Stabiliser end links
• Steering rack ends
The control arms still look good and were replaced in 2024, so I’ll run those for a little longer before replacing them.

Rear suspension
The rear bump stops have deteriorated and broken apart.
The rear shocks aren’t leaking yet, but considering their age and mileage, I’ll probably replace the shocks and mounts at the same time.

Oil-filter housing
There is quite a bit of old coolant residue around the oil-filter housing.
I’m not sure yet whether there is a very slow current leak or whether it is residue from a previous leak that was repaired.
Either way, at 200,000 km I’m leaning towards replacing the complete housing as preventative maintenance. I may also look at replacing the original plastic housing with an aluminium version.

Front right tyre
The right-front tyre has a cut in the sidewall.
I’ll replace both front tyres rather than just the damaged one.
Rainy season is almost upon us, and fresh front tyres with proper tread depth mean better wet-weather grip and braking performance.
I’ll most likely stick with the Continental ContiSportContact 5 SSRs currently fitted to the car.

Cooling system
The BMW invoices confirm that the water pump has been replaced, but I haven’t seen any mention of the thermostat being done.
I’m therefore considering replacing the thermostat and housing before flushing the cooling system and switching over to Motul coolant.

Engine and gearbox mounts
I can’t find any evidence that these have previously been replaced.
At this mileage, they’re definitely worth adding to the preventative-maintenance list.

Propshaft
There are two flexible couplings/guibos on the propshaft.
Both the front and rear couplings are beginning to show very minor cracking.
Nothing alarming yet, but they will need attention, and while I’m in there I’ll probably replace the centre support bearing at the same time.


DAY 1 — SERVICE & BASELINE MAINTENANCE​

Once the inspection was finished and I had a better idea of what I was working with, I got started.

• Added Motul Engine Clean/Flush and allowed it to circulate before draining the old engine oil

• Removed the oil filter, cleaned the housing and installed a new MANN oil filter and O-ring

• Installed the drain plug with a new crush washer

• Filled the engine with approximately 5.2 litres of Liqui Moly 5W-30

• The engine air filter had last been replaced in October last year, roughly 10,000 km ago, so that was replaced again

• Removed the old cabin/pollen filter and installed a new activated-carbon cabin filter

• Ran a full diagnostic scan, cleared historical faults and reset the engine-oil service reminder

• Ran diagnostics on the EGS/transmission control unit and checked the transmission data to determine whether the gearbox can be safely serviced

• Took the car for a drive to bring the differential oil up to temperature

• Returned to the workshop and put it back onto the lift

• Drained the rear differential oil, which had apparently been replaced last year, and refilled it with Motul Gear oil

That’s where I stopped for Day 1.

I’ll drive it around for the next week and let the fresh oil do its thing.

Then, if I get some free workshop time next week, I’ll continue working through the list.

NEXT UP:​

• Replace the diesel fuel filter — I’ll probably do this together with the gearbox service since I’ll already be working in that area

• ZF 8HP transmission service with a new oil pan/filter kit and Motul ATF

• Flush and bleed the braking system with Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid

• Replace both front tyres with new Continental ContiSportContact 5 SSRs

• Start collecting the parts for the complete suspension refresh

• Engine and gearbox mounts

• Front and rear propshaft guibos and centre support bearing

• Replace the driver’s door seals — replacement seals came with the car

• Install the steering-rack repair kit — a new kit also came with the car

And obviously, somewhere further down the road...
N47 timing chain. 😅

The idea with this car isn’t simply to throw parts at it because it has 200,000 km on the clock.

I want to go through it systematically, establish a proper mechanical baseline, address the things that genuinely need attention, carry out sensible preventative maintenance and then document what living with a well-maintained, higher-mileage F30 320d is actually like.

I’ll keep updating this thread as the work progresses.

Here's the pics from day 1
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Mytfine

Well-known member
I have owned probably over 2 dozen beemers with over 250k on the clock and have found that if you do your homework, and spend at least 2 hours going over every aspect of the car to make sure it's solid they will 95% of the time not let you down to a degree where you will need a rollback. Even better, buy it and do the stuff that is well known to fail anyway.

The best thing you can buy is a boroscope, if it has sludge walk away as it's a sure indicator that services was far and few between. These days frequent oil and filter changes are far too long.
 

Clint@MMS AUTO

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
DAY 2 - FUEL FILTER & ZF 8HP TRANSMISSION SERVICE

Since I finished up a little earlier today, I decided to put the 320d back onto the lift and continue working through the list.

First up was the fuel filter.
I removed the lower underbody panels to gain access to the gearbox and fuel filter area. The existing fuel filter had been fitted in 2024, so I decided to replace it now while I was already working underneath the car.
The old filter was removed and a new fuel filter installed.
1.jpeg
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Then it was onto the transmission.
I had already run diagnostics on the EGS and checked the available transmission data. Everything looked good, there were no concerning faults or obvious warning signs, and the gearbox was shifting very well, so I was comfortable going ahead with the service.

I already had a new ZF 8HP oil pan/filter kit and Motul transmission fluid ready to go.
5.jpeg
The old transmission fluid was drained and the original oil pan with its integrated filter removed.
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Once the pan was off, I cleaned the mating surfaces properly and gave the exposed area around the valve body a careful wipe-down before fitting the new oil pan/filter assembly.
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The new pan was installed with new bolts, and all of the pan bolts were torqued to 10 Nm.
I then carried out the initial transmission fill before completing the final fill procedure and setting the fluid level correctly.
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Once everything was torqued, checked and cleaned, the undertrays were refitted and the car was moved off the lift.
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The difference was noticeable almost immediately.
Engagement into both Reverse and Drive feels smoother than before, and the gearbox generally feels even more refined.
It was already shifting well before the service, so I wasn't expecting some dramatic transformation, but the improvement in low-speed engagement is definitely noticeable.

Lastly, a new engine Start/Stop button had arrived, so I fitted that as well.
Nothing major, but the old one had started showing its age and the new one freshens up the interior nicely.
19.jpeg20.jpeg

Next on the list:

  • Flush and bleed the braking system, including cycling the ABS pump, with Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid
  • Replace the two front tyres
  • Start collecting parts for the front suspension refresh
  • Start planning the preventative cooling-system work
  • Engine and gearbox mounts

So far, the car is proving to be a very solid example.
 

Nastaliq

Well-known member
DAY 2 - FUEL FILTER & ZF 8HP TRANSMISSION SERVICE

Since I finished up a little earlier today, I decided to put the 320d back onto the lift and continue working through the list.

First up was the fuel filter.
I removed the lower underbody panels to gain access to the gearbox and fuel filter area. The existing fuel filter had been fitted in 2024, so I decided to replace it now while I was already working underneath the car.
The old filter was removed and a new fuel filter installed.
View attachment 35862

View attachment 35863View attachment 35864View attachment 35865

Then it was onto the transmission.
I had already run diagnostics on the EGS and checked the available transmission data. Everything looked good, there were no concerning faults or obvious warning signs, and the gearbox was shifting very well, so I was comfortable going ahead with the service.


I already had a new ZF 8HP oil pan/filter kit and Motul transmission fluid ready to go.
View attachment 35866
The old transmission fluid was drained and the original oil pan with its integrated filter removed.
View attachment 35867View attachment 35868

Once the pan was off, I cleaned the mating surfaces properly and gave the exposed area around the valve body a careful wipe-down before fitting the new oil pan/filter assembly.
View attachment 35869View attachment 35870View attachment 35871View attachment 35872View attachment 35873View attachment 35874

The new pan was installed with new bolts, and all of the pan bolts were torqued to 10 Nm.
I then carried out the initial transmission fill before completing the final fill procedure and setting the fluid level correctly.
View attachment 35875View attachment 35876View attachment 35877
Once everything was torqued, checked and cleaned, the undertrays were refitted and the car was moved off the lift.
View attachment 35878

The difference was noticeable almost immediately.
Engagement into both Reverse and Drive feels smoother than before, and the gearbox generally feels even more refined.
It was already shifting well before the service, so I wasn't expecting some dramatic transformation, but the improvement in low-speed engagement is definitely noticeable.


Lastly, a new engine Start/Stop button had arrived, so I fitted that as well.
Nothing major, but the old one had started showing its age and the new one freshens up the interior nicely.
View attachment 35879View attachment 35880


Next on the list:
  • Flush and bleed the braking system, including cycling the ABS pump, with Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid
  • Replace the two front tyres
  • Start collecting parts for the front suspension refresh
  • Start planning the preventative cooling-system work
  • Engine and gearbox mounts

So far, the car is proving to be a very solid example.
This content is what I am here for, its the reason i signed up to this forum in the first place and the reason why I am here daily catching up on what has happened and whats new.

Having owned more than a handful of 20ds I know them to be reliable, I also know the DPF can give you shit and randomly cause limp mode when there is not enough flow through. Add it to your list to check.

Other than that, I am sure I will get to see the car first hand soon.

Congrats on the wheels and the happy smiles you will have when you pull away at a traffic light at a very frugal 6.2l fuel consumption all with enough torque to make the backseat passengers get whiplash from the low end torque this motor pushes out.
 

evnmopwr

Well-known member
Congrats to both you and the Mechanic....
i think you even more lucky that you have the opportunity to take it to someone with this level of attention to detail.

like a damn doctor. Probably has a file for all cars with list of things done and all the medication he gave the cars. lol
 

Clint@MMS AUTO

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
Congrats Clint!
I was hoping you were going to get that 530D from Welee so i could check it out when i was at your place 😁

Awesome spec
Thanks Fil, I really wanted the 30d and Weelee had 2 that caught my eye (330d and 530d) , but a 30d is a bit too much of a run around car lol, didn't make sense, Its going to be used mainly to go fetch parts and come back lol. This was like 60% cheaper, well cared for, with Leftover Money for Maintenance, new parts and small mods :ROFLMAO:
 

Clint@MMS AUTO

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
This content is what I am here for, its the reason i signed up to this forum in the first place and the reason why I am here daily catching up on what has happened and whats new.

Having owned more than a handful of 20ds I know them to be reliable, I also know the DPF can give you shit and randomly cause limp mode when there is not enough flow through. Add it to your list to check.

Other than that, I am sure I will get to see the car first hand soon.

Congrats on the wheels and the happy smiles you will have when you pull away at a traffic light at a very frugal 6.2l fuel consumption all with enough torque to make the backseat passengers get whiplash from the low end torque this motor pushes out.
Thanks Member, Downpipe is coming so DPF will be out soon.
 

Clint@MMS AUTO

BMWFanatics Advertiser
Official Advertiser
TODAY’S UPDATE - SUSPENSION PARTS, MOUNTS & A FEW COSMETIC BITS

Since getting the car, I’ve only driven about 31 km. Mostly short runs around Randburg, but so far everything is going really well.

The engine and drivetrain are ultra smooth.

What I have noticed, though, is that the front suspension feels a little clunky over bumps and uneven road surfaces. The front end also doesn’t feel quite as stable or planted as I’d like, so I’ve decided that the front suspension is going to be my next priority.

I’m also going to do the F80 M3 lower control arm upgrade and see how much of a difference that makes to the front-end feel and steering response.

I’ve decided to hold off on replacing the front tyres for now.

I’d rather get the suspension work completed first and have the alignment properly dialled in on the old tyres before fitting the new ones.

That way, if the F80 control arms alter the alignment more than expected, it’s the old tyres taking the wear on the drive to the alignment shop and not a brand-new set.

Today I managed to source the following parts for the front suspension, engine mounts and gearbox mounts. Where applicable, I ordered both left and right sides:
  • Bilstein shocks for M Sport suspension
  • F80 M3 lower control arms
  • Front shock mounts
  • Complete tie rods
  • Steering rack boots
  • Stabiliser end links
  • Front spring pads
  • Shock absorber dust boots
  • Engine mounts
  • Gearbox mounts
  • Steering rack repair kit

For the cosmetic side of things, I’ve also ordered a few bits and pieces and am waiting for them to arrive:
  • M Performance front splitters and front lip in gloss black
  • M Performance rear diffuser in gloss black
  • Gloss black wing mirror caps
  • M Performance boot lip spoiler in gloss black
  • Mud flap set
  • New OEM front carpet mats
The mats were free, so I definitely wasn’t going to say no to those. 😂


For the engine side of things, I’ve also ordered and am waiting on:
  • EGR delete kit
  • Swirl flap delete kit
  • Downpipe

As for the actual work completed today, I removed the old front door seals and fitted the replacement ones that came with the car.

While I was at it, I treated all of the door rubbers with Gummi Pflege to soften and condition them and bring some life back into the rubber.

A small job, but it makes a noticeable difference when you’re trying to bring the whole car back up to a proper standard.

So for now, the next major job will be the front suspension refresh, followed by alignment and then the new front tyres.

Slowly working through the list and getting the car exactly where I want it.

More to follow.
 
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