2011 320i E90 Turbo Kit

[GAVz96]

What issues does the car still have?

@Greenz - So to be honest probably still quite a bit, because there’s still oil leaking onto the Exhaust Manifold (guessing this is the TCG being pinched or something), oil is also leaking out of what looks like a Breather Pipe of some sorts on the top back of the TCG Cover and then an oil leak coming from the VANOS sensors on the front of the engine.

So in short it just seems like oil leaks 🤷🏻‍♂️, TCG and VSS (the most expensive one 🤦🏻‍♂️)

 

[GAVz96]

An owner problem

@NBN - yeah the wrong car from the start so it seems 👀

 

[GAVz96]

I'm convinced OP is driving a Tractor somewhere in the vast Kalahari with a Black Label quart held firmly between his vellies smoking a zol through the ass of a pofadder coz no E90 I know of can still ride after one year without a water pump that's not pumping and not overheat or break.

If so, Buffelsfontein should please contact him coz you won't get a rowwer blixem to use for an add than that.

At least the "spins in second gear" problem/achievement is now sorted

@Teezoh - the tractor is a 320i, just finished plowing my fields yesterday 👀🤣😂, don’t drink Black Label, it’s probably KWV.

 

[GAVz96]

I've read so many different operating temps for these cars - even that you can alter the settings to run cool, warm or hot.

I think some of it has to do with what temp the thermostat opens but also what temp the fan kicks in.
Mine runs up to 105 before the fan kicks in but it seldom gets there, average is 103 and the pump is definitely working.

I think had your pump not been working the engine would have overheated so that doesn't make sense.

Some claim the engine is more efficient at hotter temps but I can't find any empirical evidence this is true.

@DarrylvanNiekerk - It’s difficult to say, because when the mechanic and I took the water pump off the fins on the inside were rusted off, so not too sure how long it had been like that, but yeah with the OBD reader values we were always around the 113•c for both coolant and oil. But will be keeping an eye on it, so far we reach about 70•c - 75•c with just regular daily driving. A bit sceptical about driving it WOT though.

 

[DarrylvanNiekerk]

@Greenz - So to be honest probably still quite a bit, because there’s still oil leaking onto the Exhaust Manifold (guessing this is the TCG being pinched or something), oil is also leaking out of what looks like a Breather Pipe of some sorts on the top back of the TCG Cover and then an oil leak coming from the VANOS sensors on the front of the engine.

So in short it just seems like oil leaks 🤷🏻‍♂️, TCG and VSS (the most expensive one 🤦🏻‍♂️)

Oil leak onto manifold is that middle or back?
If at the back then that would be the vacuum pump seal.
Breather pipe at top right of TC is part of the oil separator, there is a small O-ring on that. I'm guessing your oil separator is probably leaking too.
The O-rings for the solenoids are quite easy to replace, do not bother with aftermarket get them from BMW - they aren't very pricey but only the BMW ones work.

Check the gasket on the water cap that sits at the back of the engine below the vacuum pump.
That also needs to be replaced and when it leaks the bolts rust and then break off in the block - not fun.
There are a few other small gaskets that form part of the TC that might be leaking instead of the actual TCG.
Maybe check tensioner too as well as O-rings for inlet and exhaust timing sensors.

 

[GAVz96]

Oil leak onto manifold is that middle or back?
If at the back then that would be the vacuum pump seal.
Breather pipe at top right of TC is part of the oil separator, there is a small O-ring on that. I'm guessing your oil separator is probably leaking too.
The O-rings for the solenoids are quite easy to replace, do not bother with aftermarket get them from BMW - they aren't very pricey but only the BMW ones work.

Check the gasket on the water cap that sits at the back of the engine below the vacuum pump.
That also needs to be replaced and when it leaks the bolts rust and then break off in the block - not fun.
There are a few other small gaskets that form part of the TC that might be leaking instead of the actual TCG.
Maybe check tensioner too as well as O-rings for inlet and exhaust timing sensors.

@DarrylvanNiekerk
So the oil leaking on to the manifold is almost in front/middle on cylinder 1 exhaust.

From what I saw I didn’t see any oil leak from the oil separator (thats where the oil filter is right?)

Will take a look at the back of the engine, it shouldn’t be the vacuum pump since I had that replaced when I first got the car.

Out of curiosity, how do I know when I need to replace the VANOS sensors? Because if I just need to do the seals then thats a huge saving IMO.

 

[DarrylvanNiekerk]

@DarrylvanNiekerk
So the oil leaking on to the manifold is almost in front/middle on cylinder 1 exhaust.

From what I saw I didn’t see any oil leak from the oil separator (thats where the oil filter is right?)

Will take a look at the back of the engine, it shouldn’t be the vacuum pump since I had that replaced when I first got the car.

Out of curiosity, how do I know when I need to replace the VANOS sensors? Because if I just need to do the seals then thats a huge saving IMO.

There's still a few spots it could be coming from, not saying it isn't your TCG.
Oil filler cap seal, eccentric shaft gasket flange...
I suggest removing the top covers and inspecting where the leak is coming from.
Check out realoem.com, put your vehicle details in and you can see every single part that makes your car up and how it goes together - very informative.

Oil separator sits under the intake manifold, you'll need a torch to look into the recesses to check for leaks.

Buy the VANOS sensor seals then remove the sensors, if you pull and replace oil will leak from there.
Check the sensors for any metal filings on the screens to know if things are in a bad way inside the engine.
I used brake cleaner and sprayed inside the solenoids until they were spotless and rattled when I shook them - ie. solenoids aren't bound up. Some say brake cleaner is too harsh...
You can test if they are working by connecting to a 9v battery, check for polarity first. If the solenoid clicks when you apply power it is working.

 

[GAVz96]

@DarrylvanNiekerk

Thanks man, yeah I did buy a new oil filler cap, although noticed afterwards I could just replace the seal, but not a big issue, will take a look for those leaks.

 

[GAVz96]

What’s up guys, just a quick one.

Has anyone used FREY ignition coils before? If so what is the quality like?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Benji]

Just saw the title of this thread and thought "what the actual" this is one of the silliest ideas Ive ever heard of. Had to come see the ridiculousness for myself

Seems to be the forum agrees; DONT DO IT, forget the money you've wasted, dont waste more money, buy a proper car.

 

[GAVz96]

Just saw the title of this thread and thought "what the actual" this is one of the silliest ideas Ive ever heard of. Had to come see the ridiculousness for myself

Seems to be the forum agrees; DONT DO IT, forget the money you've wasted, dont waste more money, buy a proper car.

🤣🤣🤣 yes @Benji lesson learned 👀 more worried about the FREY ignition coils quality now 😅 since it’s a never ending game with the car.

 

[Benji]

🤣🤣🤣 yes @Benji lesson learned 👀 more worried about the FREY ignition coils quality now 😅 since it’s a never ending game with the car.

Dont play games bro, get OEM, this is not a Toyota

 

[GAVz96]

@Benji thanks man, that was the answer I needed 👍🏻 because yeah you don’t find a lot of info about them online.