-
Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
2007 E64 M6
- Thread starter Katanator
- Start date
Katanator
Well-known member
Still to do:
Open tappet covers, just to check, rather have to deal with a leaky tappet cover than a bottom end inspection again.
I shall be replacing engin and trans mounts along with front control arms and bushes.
Inspect and open up main oil and vanos oil pump.
I will replace the vanos internal high pressure line.
Open tappet covers, just to check, rather have to deal with a leaky tappet cover than a bottom end inspection again.
I shall be replacing engin and trans mounts along with front control arms and bushes.
Inspect and open up main oil and vanos oil pump.
I will replace the vanos internal high pressure line.
Katanator
Well-known member
PsyCLown
Well-known member
Ouch, part of S85 ownership I guess.
I see you get rebuild kits: https://drvanos.com/products/s85-vanos-pump-rebuild-kit
Even with shipping & customs it would likely work out cheaper than a new pump.
You can do that kit if your wish is for it to fail again.
Once the race is deformed the pump extensions also deform and when you re assemble you have a new race and deformed extensions.
Rinse repeat
Katanator
Well-known member
I have ordered the kit from DrVanos. Shall fit it and see how it turns.
My reasoning is it will an all cases be significantly better than what it was.
I will definitely order a new main oil pump from dealers.
Katanator
Well-known member
Bearing race fitted. The difference can not be described. Previously could not even turn 1/10 of a rev without significant resistance. Smooth as butter now.
The old bearing race had an oval shape from wear.
The kit comes with new o rings for all the pressure valves.
The old bearing race had an oval shape from wear.
The kit comes with new o rings for all the pressure valves.
Attachments
Katanator
Well-known member
She is back and alive. I certainly caught a hot potato in time here.
Idle and engin sound is super super smooth and quiet now with notable less ticking sounds than before, especially from the belly.
Note to anyone considering to buy an oldish M car. Pack your socket set, oil filter and 1 liter of oil. Offer the seller a free oil filter change and spare yourself a lot of trouble. If you already have one check the filter and housing regularly, if it wasnt for my gut to check this the oil pump couldve failed any time and who knows what then. Oil pressure was good, vanos oil pressure was also good and no other signs of trouble.
Stuff we did to get here:
New oem bearings
New oem bolts
New oem oil pump
New oem vanos internal line
New vanos pump bearing race and seal kit
Replaced engin mounts oem (what is driveline slack even 😂)
Replaced trans mounts oem
Replaced front control arms and bushes
Cleaned vanos filters on each head
Lifted tappet covers to inspect valves and springs
Replaced vanos filter inside block (this is identified by me as the gate keeper to keeping the Vanos pump and system clean even though main oil pump was shedding metal)
Cleaned oil cooler again, yes the new one
Flushed 2x auxiliary oil pumps
Flushed vanos pressure accumulator
I shall be driving low rpm for 1000km now, then change oil again. Why, oil is cheap (okay maybe not castrol 10w60 but anyways) and parts expensive. This is the way.
Idle and engin sound is super super smooth and quiet now with notable less ticking sounds than before, especially from the belly.
Note to anyone considering to buy an oldish M car. Pack your socket set, oil filter and 1 liter of oil. Offer the seller a free oil filter change and spare yourself a lot of trouble. If you already have one check the filter and housing regularly, if it wasnt for my gut to check this the oil pump couldve failed any time and who knows what then. Oil pressure was good, vanos oil pressure was also good and no other signs of trouble.
Stuff we did to get here:
New oem bearings
New oem bolts
New oem oil pump
New oem vanos internal line
New vanos pump bearing race and seal kit
Replaced engin mounts oem (what is driveline slack even 😂)
Replaced trans mounts oem
Replaced front control arms and bushes
Cleaned vanos filters on each head
Lifted tappet covers to inspect valves and springs
Replaced vanos filter inside block (this is identified by me as the gate keeper to keeping the Vanos pump and system clean even though main oil pump was shedding metal)
Cleaned oil cooler again, yes the new one
Flushed 2x auxiliary oil pumps
Flushed vanos pressure accumulator
I shall be driving low rpm for 1000km now, then change oil again. Why, oil is cheap (okay maybe not castrol 10w60 but anyways) and parts expensive. This is the way.
Attachments
Katanator
Well-known member
I have been getting the dreaded red flickering light and soft top not locked error leaving the soft top locked and all windows not operable. Had it on previous occasions as well and managed to get it fixed with fiddling here and there on the sensors and front locking mechanism.
This time nothing worked. Opted to open the roof manually which also didnt work, figured this would solve the issue if it was the rear support angle sensors.
From a previous time I remember I got it fixed with adjusting the front locking mechanism. Opened up the front panel and found the bugger. One of the position sensors not reaching full position. And just like that error fixed.
My plan to lock the rear boot cover with kitesurf lines pulled through the small openings. I see no other way of locking the roof lid from the inside.
This time nothing worked. Opted to open the roof manually which also didnt work, figured this would solve the issue if it was the rear support angle sensors.
From a previous time I remember I got it fixed with adjusting the front locking mechanism. Opened up the front panel and found the bugger. One of the position sensors not reaching full position. And just like that error fixed.
My plan to lock the rear boot cover with kitesurf lines pulled through the small openings. I see no other way of locking the roof lid from the inside.
Katanator
Well-known member
It is an extremely rewarding car to drive. Im doing daily drives on the highway just to get the run in period over. Luxury and comfort is also very nice.
I am even considering buying a second one to fix up and possibly resell (E60 M5 would also be nice). That in mind I think there are key areas to attend of which afterwards it can be a very reliable car. I think over time the S85 engins will die out due to general lack of maintenance leaving the few left over highly desirable. All this in mind I would say it is a car for someone with hands on experience and willingness to do some diy from time to time.
Last edited:
PsyCLown
Well-known member
I was under the impression that there are a few big ticket items to take care of and was hopeful that they would then be relatively reliable afterwards.
Although everything you've done in such a short period of time makes me 2nd guess this.
I do not mind doing some DIY but I am not a mechanic. Price wise, they do kind of feel like a bargain considering what you're getting for the money. These V10's are some of the cheapest M cars you can buy.
I love that you're sharing the ownership process with us though.
Katanator
Well-known member
I would not rate them any more finicky than a s54 or s65. But think once sorted and keeping to frequent oil changes and long warm up times they are probably more reliable than modern day turbo engins and should last a lifetime.
By default I think big ends should be done on all these when taking over ownership unless you truly know the sellers story, I always find it fascinating that every for sale add states big eng bearings just done. I mean why do you spend 30% of the cars value to just immediately resell afterwards. And I would include an inspection of oil pumps as well since they are the first line of defense for picking up worn particles.
TBP88
Well-known member
I think beyond the engine itself you also have a finnicky gearbox here that none of the S54 engined cars have (even the auto M3 is just a controller on the manual gearbox - not much added complexity).
They're cheap because whatever you pay you're going to need to budget at the low end another R100k worth of work. And in a bad case probably more like 200k+. And when it's all done you will not have increased your cars value by that amount - and it's got some niggly electronics too :/
PsyCLown
Well-known member
The SMG box does put me off these V10's quite a bit. It does not seem fantastic and as you said it does seem very finnicky.
The fact that Evolve are close to getting a DCT box to run "like OEM" on these I think is amazing, although another larger cost as you need to find a DCT box and have it fitted and get the Evolve electronics to make it work nicely. Not going to be cheap.
I guess buying a decent one and dropping another R200k+ financially puts you into a region where your choice of M cars is quite substantial.
However for a car with a V10, perhaps it's still on the cheap side and IMO one of the most unique M cars which are still easily available.
Similar threads
