E46 320d preventative maintenance for longevity

SimonB

New member
So I recently got another e46, this time a 320d 6 speed. The car has 168k km on with FSH. I'm the furthest thing away from being mechanically inclined and can only go off of research and what other people say. I plan on keeping the car for a long time and I use it as a daily so I want to get some things out to way so that I can drive with peace of mind. I know some of these things have been discussed in forums but haven't had clear answers overall in one place. The things I want to do for now are below . I have done a fair amount of research and understand why the below is recommended but there are still some questions.

Swirl flaps delete (possible loss of low end power?)
EGR delete
DPF delete?

My options are egr complete removal but I read somewhere that it's a bad thing if you remove the egr but not the dpf? Other option was, which was recommended by a shop that does all this..is to only delete the egr via software then probably doing a tune with the new A/F ratio. So my question is if one can just delete it via software why go through the trouble of physically removing it? Especially since you will need to retune anyways if you do physically remove it. And if I do remove it via software or physically do I need to delete/remove the dpf too?

My other option which I'm leaning more towards is only doing a swirl flap delete and then doing a full carbon clean. In that case I won't have to remove the EGR and dpf yet and can maybe do it in the future since it probably also won't be the cheapest thing to do either.

I also want to keep the car as stock as possible. I might consider stage 1 sw which is probably what they do anyways when deleting the EGR/dpf.
Lastly, when deleting the DPF, will that not create a lot of or more black smoke? I don't particularly want a puff of black smoke everytime I try overtake someone.

Thanks for any advice.
 

husaindindar

///Member
Make it bullet proof by:
EGR Delete
Swirl flap bank
DPF Delete
SW Stage 2!
Oil change every 7500km LiquiMolly
Injector cleaner every 5000km LiquiMolly
Suspension refresh
Clutch if its starts slipping


Please tripple verify the kilo's
Its almost impossible to find any e46 with those kilos. Call the dealers/service centres to verify
 

SimonB

New member
Regarding the dpf and egr deletes, does it need to be physically removed or can one just do it on the software? As for the mileage, @Coisman did a check for me and I also called the dealers from which it had FSH. Dealers confirmed the services and the mileage.
 

husaindindar

///Member
The DPF is a hardware delete. Think decat. It must be removed.

EGR can be coded out via software, however they do start to leak after some time. Best to remove it and blank it.

Swirl flaps also can be coded out so they stay open, however these are a bit more critical to remove and blank them instead. Reason is they get brittle with heat and oil residue and break off. Once broken they end up inside the intake and into the engine. A very costly repair. I would regard this the most critical item to do!

You are lucky to find an e46 320d with that milage. I've seen many at over 400 000km running well without issues.
Double bonus if it's face-lift MSport!
Do remember to keep the fuel system clean. Throw good diesel and injector cleaner every 5k km. Oil change every 10k or less.
Sorry I re emphasis the oil and injector cleaner!
 

SimonB

New member
Thanks for the info! Makes sense now why people remove the EGR completely since they can start to leak. The swirl flaps I will definitely be removing asap, the oil change and injector cleaner will be coming as well. Thanks again
 

SimonB

New member
Are there any recommendations for anyone who can do the work on the car other than bmw themselves as I assume they will charge and arm and a leg. I tried Garage 808 but apparently they don't work on the e46 320d's? I realised today that the thermostat will need replacing too as even when cold I can see the fluids getting sprayed into the radiator and as I understand it, that should only happen once the car gets hot and thermostat opens? The car also takes forever to get to temp and sometimes doesn't get to temp even throughout my whole 15-20 min drive to work.
 
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