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Read the WELCOME ALL BMWFANATICS post.
technical BMW E46 330i Engine Rebuild OEM+
- Thread starter TheFlash
- Start date
Chapter Eleven - Engine Timing and Getting Final Items Wrapped Up
The plan was to get everything close to lined up and finalise in the car
Prepare the parts in order.
Assembled the guides and covers and checked everything lined up correctly
The pistons on need to touch the timing tool and then the nuts need to be locked down.
Needed to get engine of the stand to fit the rear main seal, had a 3D printed guide to allow it to slide into place with catching lips, the Elring version comes with this the Victor Reinz doesn't some bolts need thread locker others, two lower need thread sealer
Once that is on can go back onto stand and sump can be fitted with new oil level sensor
Vanos solenoids go on with new crush washers, thermostat, cam sensors.
The harmonic damper needs to be torqued to 410NM and I needed to counter-hold this, I was going to do this with engine in car but decided to break out the TIG and make the counter hold tool instead
The 3/4" Torque wrench to do 410NM, it max rating is 400NM but can be adjusted to 410NM
Adapter to use a 1/2" socket you will see why further down
Making the tool, got a big socket 42mm I think could have been bigger, machined the inside to fit 1/2" socket, welded three prongs to ouside
This will hold way more the 410NM
Nice long handle and a coat of paint
The end result, was able to do the 410NM by myself
Had an oiled nylon sleeve between socket so it slid easily
While I had TIG out stainless welded the broken exhaust bracket
Fresh clutch ready to go in
Engine waiting to go back in
The plan was to get everything close to lined up and finalise in the car
Prepare the parts in order.
Assembled the guides and covers and checked everything lined up correctly
The pistons on need to touch the timing tool and then the nuts need to be locked down.
Needed to get engine of the stand to fit the rear main seal, had a 3D printed guide to allow it to slide into place with catching lips, the Elring version comes with this the Victor Reinz doesn't some bolts need thread locker others, two lower need thread sealer
Once that is on can go back onto stand and sump can be fitted with new oil level sensor
Vanos solenoids go on with new crush washers, thermostat, cam sensors.
The harmonic damper needs to be torqued to 410NM and I needed to counter-hold this, I was going to do this with engine in car but decided to break out the TIG and make the counter hold tool instead
The 3/4" Torque wrench to do 410NM, it max rating is 400NM but can be adjusted to 410NM
Adapter to use a 1/2" socket you will see why further down
Making the tool, got a big socket 42mm I think could have been bigger, machined the inside to fit 1/2" socket, welded three prongs to ouside
This will hold way more the 410NM
Nice long handle and a coat of paint
The end result, was able to do the 410NM by myself
Had an oiled nylon sleeve between socket so it slid easily
While I had TIG out stainless welded the broken exhaust bracket
Fresh clutch ready to go in
Engine waiting to go back in
Chapter Twelve - Engine and Gearbox Back In
After giving the engine bay a good cleanup, the engine was dropped in with the gearbox
Also ran Rogue Engineering's stiffer gearbox mounts
Picture from original pre-check of how O2 sensors would rest. I used some of the original clips that were in place for secondary O2 sensors, which this car didn't have; cable routing looks OE
Getting all the bolts tightened on the headers was a bit of a pain, but I did have more access than with the original headers; the rest of the install was pretty much straightforward: water pipes, driveshaft, covers, exhaust, new plugs, and fluids.
Ran the engine without the coil packs and the fuel pump relay off until it built oil pressure; once I connected those, it started on the first try.
Somehow, some of the thick assembly lube made its way into the new lifters; this took a while to clear out, and the car had a tick for a while (200- 500 km), but once it cleared, the car ran smoothly.
I changed the oil at around 600 km, and the car has now done about 5,000 km; the oil consumption is almost nonexistent compared to what it used to be.
The car is now ready for a tune-up. I have a newer ECU with upgraded hardware, which I will start to map
After giving the engine bay a good cleanup, the engine was dropped in with the gearbox
Also ran Rogue Engineering's stiffer gearbox mounts
Picture from original pre-check of how O2 sensors would rest. I used some of the original clips that were in place for secondary O2 sensors, which this car didn't have; cable routing looks OE
Getting all the bolts tightened on the headers was a bit of a pain, but I did have more access than with the original headers; the rest of the install was pretty much straightforward: water pipes, driveshaft, covers, exhaust, new plugs, and fluids.
Ran the engine without the coil packs and the fuel pump relay off until it built oil pressure; once I connected those, it started on the first try.
Somehow, some of the thick assembly lube made its way into the new lifters; this took a while to clear out, and the car had a tick for a while (200- 500 km), but once it cleared, the car ran smoothly.
I changed the oil at around 600 km, and the car has now done about 5,000 km; the oil consumption is almost nonexistent compared to what it used to be.
The car is now ready for a tune-up. I have a newer ECU with upgraded hardware, which I will start to map
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