Mazda 2 Individual - Spotless Again

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Mike1

Guest
Good Morning Fanatics

My client, a lady who purchased a MINI from me a while ago got in contact to have her lovely little Mazda 2 Individual detailed.

She was in a spot of bother with the car, the reason being that she works in an Industrial Area in the Cape Town Dockyard close to companies which rebuilt and re-spray boats.

This caused problems as over time the car was subjected to industrial fallout, sea salt; overspray and being a black car the sun had taken its toll on the bodywork.

We decided to go for a custom service, consisting of a clay session and a more durable wax to withstand the harsh environment the car spent most of its time in.

I collected the car from her the day before the detail and began work at 8am starting with a rather untidy car:

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As usual, the mag wheels and arches were dosed in a healthy layer of APC and then scrubbed & agitated.

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The car was then foamed with Chemical Guys Maxi Suds, left to dwell for 10 minutes and then re-washed by hand.

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At this point I mixed up a strong blend of Maxi Suds and introduced the car to its first ever clay session. The results were horrific.

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This is what the clay looked like after not even a quarter of the bonnet. The car had so much paint contamination that the clay process alone took me 4 hours to complete. The reason being is simple:

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The car was covered in overspray from the docks with loads of tiny white speckles all over the paintwork. Such was the damage that only after claying did I realize that the paint was not metallic but rather a flat black!

With the claying finally completed I gave the car yet another wash followed by a closer inspection of the damage on the paint.

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The paintwork, now silky smooth was littered in fine markings, RDS and had very little to almost no clarity. The finish was hazy and dull.

I attacked the paintwork, working in two passes of Chemical Guys Pro Cut 2 followed by a pass with some Pro Polish and then finished with a very light pass of Ultimate Compound. The results were astonishing:

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With the polishing phase complete and only another 2 hours to work on the car I finished off by a quick re-wash and two layers of Collonite Wax, Opti-Seal and for added gloss (even though this was excessive and not required) a very light coat of Wet Butter Wax.

The mag wheels were coated in Rim Wax, trim dressed and interior vacuumed and cleaned. The glass was given a pass with some Autoglym Fast Glass and the arches, engine bay tyres were dressed.

With time running out a quick photoshoot was in order followed by delivery to my customer at 6pm.

Happy with the results, although more could have been done I dropped the car off leaving a happy customer to enjoy her freshly pampered car:

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This detail was rather challenging as I really had to push myself to complete the car in time and remain constant in terms of the premium finish and service I deliver.

I hope you enjoyed reading this, all comments are welcome.

Mike
 
J

Jakkals_F30

Guest
Stunning... would really not say it's the same car at all.
:thumbs:
 
M

Mike1

Guest
Thanks very much, I love these little Mazda's to be honest.

Fun, easy and so much attitude - Cant believe the prices these are going for... You can get a MK5 Golf GTI for the price these are going for used.

Oh, Happy Birthday Yulesen! :thumbs:
 

Gregmeister

Member
Mike, great work again! I am so tempted to have my car done. However, I cannot help but worry about exacly how much of the paint's clearcoat actually gets removed during these cutting and compound passes. Do you use a paint meter thingy to measure that sort of thing before and after you begin, or how does that work?
 
M

Mike1

Guest
Thank you guys :praise:

Greg, it all depends on the make of the car. German paint is notoriously tough whereas Mazda paint like here is so soft you can actually inflict damage by using too harsh a compound.

I dont have a Paint Thickness Guide, mostly because they cost over R3000 for a decent one. I always find out the history of the car, where panels have been worked on etc and keep that in mind when polishing. It takes quite a bit to burn through clearcoat so you are not really taking much off.

Besides when you wax the car you rebuild and add to clearcoat again.

Generally I know as I research the cars before I work on them what to expect and from there formulate an attack plan. I try not to do more than two passes with heavy compounds and always use softer pads when finishing and perfecting the finish.

For example on older cars that are hand-painted the paint can be up to 200 microns thick so you can be more rough and not have to worry too much. Normal thickness is about 100 to 150 microns thick and the clearcoat which you are polishing makes up half of this amount so say paint depth is 100 micron then its usually about 50 paint and 50 clearcoat.

Heavy correction will see the amount of clearcoat halve but normal correction not so much. :thumbs:

Mike
 
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